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26.3 is no charge...it's your combined battery voltage. Your regulator is bad, your Gen needs rebuild/replacement. dont bother spending anymore time till you source and replace the gen. The Gen is always charging....not just when it feels like it.

did they install the correct the hydroBoost if it was replaced? I would remove the lollie pop from the brake pedal and see if it moves freely and is not binding as well. That brake pedal should swing free, there are plastic bushings on the cross bolt that the pedal pivots on. You can't...

Have you metered both batteries when the truck is running? Pos of battery 1 and meg of battery 2, this is your 24volts...should read while while it's running 27.5-28.5 volts...sounds like you gen is going south. if it's a 60amp, the output can be adjusted. But if its,all,over the place, the...

No...my hmmvpwv had all new gauges...everything was tan, gauges we green. Clearly new.

I would bet all these trucks have 2:56.... I have rebuilt so many diffs I lost count, they have all been 2:56 my 98hummer has 2:56 the new diffs have a tab on them with the ratio...this way you don't have to open them up to read the numbers on the main hear. I did have a 97 hummer come into...

IMO, If the starter were bad, the wait light would function normally. Have you tried to jump the starter with a jumper? pos stud to small tab on the solenoid. you need to be more clear on this clicking...clicking to me sounds like dead batteries. If it were a bad neutral start switch, you would...

There is still a problem of people using the term PCB and GPC and EESS is the same posts...I will say it once more.. The PCB and GPC is the old problem ridden box. If you have an EESS, no matter who makes it, you MUST replace the old GPC with a TSU "temp sender unit" read my post I put up...

If you can undo like 10 screws and remove the retainer ...they just pop out. You can have a new piece done at any glass shop. Install is reverse...but done force it near any edges...lube up the seal with wd40.

The current standard brushguard is the Tubular you see on the new trucks...Luverne don't make them for the govt anymore IIRC, but I like there brushguard the best. They were not as plentiful as one may expect...it's my belief they were discontinued due to there weight....they are heavy.

I have a new set that just arrived....

Well...I disregarded the nipples on the old rear axle, moved the axle till it was even spacing from frame rail to side wall of tire...6.5in to be exact. Now the axle is centered and level. This was using all front axle hardware....it sits fine, looks fine...now have to flip hubs and lengthen...

So I have my front m35 springs in, I used xm381's site for pics and measurements. I slid the rear axle in and once it sits on the old purches, the diff is facing upward somewhat, I havent put the U-bolts on yet. i am reusing front u-bolts from the top down wit the bottom plate that has the shock...

I wrote this for another forum some time ago...I surely hope it's been useful for some. Mods...perhaps you can make this a sticky. Now that this is a daily question. I see post after post after post with these same issues, you guys really need to look up in the archives past issues because...

let me add...I know of no yellow label Nartron S3 EESS. Both the KDS and Nartron S3 are white labels on a CARC green box. The only thing in this application that is yellow is the band on the KDS TSU. There is also a Nartron TSU. the yellow banded KDS TSU is backwards compatible with the S3 of...

I have seen that many times...IMO the cold engine and hot OAT confuses the TSU...I also see this where the truck was running, turned off for a couple hrs, upon restart its as if it's in between "should I light the glow plugs or should I not" kind of dilemma....so additional cranking is required...

thats an A2 bumper...Does not use this loop shackles except on the ends. That bumper uses the new type drip loop shackles....unless you drill a large releif in the frame box bracket, it won't sit flush. unles you already have the correct A2 frame box bracket...that's the large outer one, the...

You can drill the uppers to 3/8...not much meat on the lowers to go with 7/16 though....that's a newer type control arm. the uppers are not 7/16...only the lowers.if your just gonna drive it leisurely, the 5/16 And 3/8 are fine.

its sitting on my shelf....

Being this has been covered at least 100 times in the last 6 mos...here it is one more time...LOL your problem is your Engine start box is bad, and/or your glow plugs are bad. The reason for the long crank and white smoke is that the glow plugs aren't igniting to assist in a cold start. The...

Not over built...required and standard issue on new hmmwv's. The old Pittman and idlers are a weak point...there have been several versions over the years. Moog PS's are heavy duty.