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those leak too....there is an O-ring on the Modulator. just make it easy and check the tcase fluid level, there is no way to over fill a tcase...unless its sealed and getting fluid dumped into it from the tranny. its a 1min check. all you need is a large crecent wrenh or correct sise socket.

Yep....

I have stripped many HMMWV frames and in the process of stripping one right now...the only numbers I have ever seen are on the Very rear end of the Frame rails... where the shackle bolts pass through, if you have an Airlift bumper on the truck, it will need to come off...i was actually looking...

first of all, where is it leaking from? hose the entire area down with brake cleaner...it has to be clean to find the source, it very well could be a tcase cooler loop broken, but the symptoms dont sound right. check to see if at the top of the Tcase the Vent tube is connected and if that is the...

...if you have a crack or fracture, its worse at startup cuz the metal is cold and as the Metal gets hot and expands the crack or fracture closes up. If its a GLow plug issue it would happen at cold starts as it tries to burn off excess unburnt fuel.

They would be the same color as the truck...they are never painted black...not that I have ever seen.

They are either already installed or they come in the soft top kits being sold on eBay. Not hard to find....look on ebay or cal Kascar.

In my restorations I buy new hinges and door handles so it looks factory new....

Generally the hinges and door handles and all mechanism are not,painted from factory, the hinges and door handle are anodized in a kind of green color or black....but after that its all painted CARC.

the first one is stock AMG Brushguard used on Civy H1, the Heavy Slat style is made by Luverne....IMHO the Best Brushguard made...Beefy as they get. I have one on my Slantback, if I could get more I would....to heavy to ship. the Round Tubular is now standard on all trucks, Every one of the...

What does the White smoke smell like? How hard is the truck to start? does the wait light come on as it should for about 7-10secs? check all your glow plug connections, check all your glow plugs...or it could be coolant....and thats bad. It is NOT normal....

Now this is Just me....But I have never been to concerened about titling or registering my Builds when I buy a Donor vehicle, to clarify, Thats the last thing I do, Or attempt to do, there are several ways around this in any state, you just have to be resourceful. My focus is on getting a Good...

Huh? Tranny Leaks have nothing to do with White Smoke.....unless your working on your tranny leak while smoking a Cigarette.

RTV is fine, i use black....a nice thin coat is all that is needed and torque per TM specs.

I forgot to add....if you have A2 upper control arms, you will have to remove the upper ball joint to remove it, the newer control arm has a round support piece welded in...early version was just an add on that bolted on. if you are replacing the entire hub, you will need 2 new ball...

Disconnect the tie rod, unbolt ball joints and its off...if you take the 4. 3/4in bolts off the control arm that the tie rod attaches to on the geared gun, you will save a rod end...most of the time the rubber boot gets destroyed removing ball joints and tie rod ends...it will swing out of way...

And what do you mean "it runs lean".

What's the part number to your new injector pump? what motor and transmission do you have? unless you have a 4L80E tranny you don't have a TPS....

Takes me approx 8hrs a week to exercise all my trucks....idling at minimum, driving is best.

Napa, part was in the parts cross reference located in 5ton forum.... Its a standard 65-75 psi ppv....28.00