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There should be a threaded hole with a pipe plug in it. Your suppose to remove the plug, install a grease zerk and then lube it. Afterwards your suppose to remove the zerk and install the pipe plug. I installed a grease zerk in the cap and a pressure relief valve in the old plug hole.

Concrete work. Now that's a good profession. Hard on the body though. I had to help my father "back in the day" pour concrete. Troweling, and screeding and just plain shoveling concrete can be pretty hard on the knees and other body parts.

Your going to want to remove the "U" bolts and possibly replace them. I drill out this hole area myself so that debris doesn't collect there anymore. This has always been a major problem area on all deuces. The bolts rust out due to all the debris holding moisture against the bolts. I have two...

It seems that there was "three" incarnations of the wiper motors for the deuce. The early ones were the all metal ones, very good design. Though the switching mechanism was overly complicated. Then came the "hybrids" I call them. They had several good parts put some not so good. The "switching...

No, your correct.

You won't be sorry. This hose is great ! I have since used it on all my major fuel lines.

That is the hose I was talking about. See the first one listed. I bought all my hose from Parker.

They where probably referring to "stainless steel covered Teflon" lines. That is used on many new trucks from the factory. It flex's and can handle the heat. Plus it will not corrode. I did it to mine years ago. I used the Parker 919 series hose.

I thought about adding a pre-start "pressurized oil system" but the cost was pretty high. So by adding the spin-on oil filters I got a pretty good system going now. It's not perfect, but it serves for now.

Your right about the tires and rot. All the tire manufactures went to a "cheaper" softer rubber compound to "help" with road handling. All it really did is make everyone have to buy tires more often. Some of mine that are NOS from the 1970's (and kept inside) are still in great shape. Others I...

Second the "Ouverson" hubs. They are the best.

Yes. The new style filters usually have a "check valve" in them preventing drain-back. I have "full" oil pressure in under 2 seconds now. That's setting for a week.

Wow that is a weird one ! I've never seen one like that before either.

Your pressures are pretty spot on, so I agree with all here that your shoes and drums are the most likely culprits. You really need to take the drums off and check this out.

We all asked that question. I bought one and was planning to buy another when they all sold out after my review. I should have kept my mouth shut and waited before posting. Then after buying what I wanted post my review. Live and learn.

Nothing wrong in wanting good tools. It's an "investment" . That's what I tell myself every time I buy a new one !

Plus you risk damaging the cover ! A tear can happen pretty fast if your not careful ! This happened to me several times when I was still in the Marines. Spring/Summer, remove the covers. Fall/Winter , install the covers. Rinse and repeat.

Don't even try and rebuild it. Just get a new one like "cattlerepairman" said. I tried to fix mine and the "clearance" between the valve was to worn out to seal properly. Just wasted over an hour for nothing.

I'm a big fan of the reduction starter myself. Less weight, less amps needed, and less heat build-up. If your worried about the quality of the "overseas" unit, then just take it apart and clean it good and lube it up. Half the time I've found out the "cheaper" overseas units lack grease. Simply fix.

I always paint mine. I hate rust !