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This sounds more like an "Ad" then a search for help, since you already appear to know the answer to the doors issue. All items to be sold should be in the classified section.

I agree with "TGP" and corrosion issues. After all these years, those connections can get really cruddy !

Almost all "NGLI #2" greases will pass the Military Standards for Grease.

I discussed this before here https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?155917-Replacing-copper-lines-with-DOT-poly-air-hose . You will need the "ferrule" and the "insert" . I forgot to mention the "insert" in the last post.

While the front is off, just go ahead and remove the right front fender. That way you can pound out the dent easier. Looks rust free. That is half the battle on these older units. Actually if I where to do it again with mine, I would totally gut the cab, remove what can be removed (hood, fenders...

I used "PTFE" stainless steel lines from the tank to the filters. Then 3/8" DOT poly lines to the injection pump and for the return lines. You could just use 1/2" DOT poly lines from the tank to the filters and then 3/8" DOT poly to the injection pump. All the modern semi-trucks and all our...

Yep. "PB Blaster" and patience. You just needed time for the Blaster to work. I once had to wait over a week to free-up some rusted bolts on a injection pump I did not want to damage.

Lots of "PB Blaster" and time. Also don't use the starter to turn over the engine. Use a breaker bar and turn slowly. Back and forth, back and forth.

Your lucky you live in such an accommodating place ! Here in Washington State they would have given you a ticket and probably frisked you for laughing ! Then when you mentioned you "carry" all I could think of was "WOW !!!!" they let him go !!!! I believe it's time I looked elsewhere to live ...

Don't forget to replace the front axle "U-Joints" while your in there. The new U-joints are cheap compared to having to go back in later to replace them.

I've wanted a crane like that for years now ! At one point almost convinced the wife we needed one ! Sadly that moment pasted without finding one for sell at a reasonable price.

That should work.

Totally agree !! You will have to move the engine from the frame to pull out the booster pump. A lot of work. There are a ton of posts on removing and installing the injection pump here. Just follow the procedures and you'll be fine.

They all lean out at the top since there is nothing to hold them in place. There are several posts showing how to fix the weather strip. Gringletaub has had one as have Apache and several others.

Yes the bottom clearance is very important, but so is the thickness of the plates. A lot of modern battery lead plates are paper thin, and made from recycled "lead". That "lead" can have a lot of impurities which shortens the life of the battery. High quality batteries like "Odyssey" use "virgin...

That's the way to do it correctly. There are several standard radiator cores that will fit the deuce. You just need the top and bottom housing. I worked a summer at a radiator repair shop in Phoenix AZ when I was going to trade school. It is amazing what a good radiator man can do !

NOS or used ?

Just keep the transmission attached to the engine. Starting the engine will also keep the transmission running too. Just use a good plug on the output shaft. Keep your radiator also attached to the engine. That way you can get the engine up to operating temperature.

Hey Frank aren't you going to share your fuel filter secret ? Truly I am really curious ! Or is this something your trying to sell ? If so can you give us a little hint of how it works ? Trust me, I know all about sharing something you came up with here. After all your not getting paid for it...

Make sure you clean up the aluminum pipes real good and use a good aluminum paint on them. Otherwise the corrosion will continue and in short order you will have several leaks appearing ! I know, been there bought the "T" shirt .