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Very cool. Looks like a nitrogen? tank that pressurizes some kind of flammable liquid? Is the discharge nozzle attached to the 37 mm? Did a radio usually go in that spot?

Well what can we tell you. The main data plate says M135 without winch, build year 5/52. M135 is the single rear wheel truck and given the way the hubs are set up on your rear tandem, that is what you have. Can you look for the stamped VIN on the frame under the passenger side fender kinda...

Those aluminum rims are off MRAPs and that bolt pattern is not 10 hole Budd and will not fit.

Yup fuzzy nailed it. The FMTV was Stewart and Stevenson’s first rodeo with road trucks, prior to this they built off highway vehicles only. The factory was right off I-10 and over the years I would see hundreds of partially completed trucks sitting outside in the weeds, waiting for this that...

How did you check the wires? When resistor wires degrade they don't pass enough energy to fire the plug when the engine is under load.

Have you replaced the plug wires.

Great price. Brakes should be much more responsive.

Dude next time put out a sos on here, most of us are squarebody Chevy sme’s so chances are we could have walked you through your issues.

Nick at USF above will take perfect care of you

That’s a thousand miles away, best hot shot haul rate you will get is $2.00/mile, suggest fix whatever failed right there with that money rather than blow it on hauling.

Use a calculator like this: https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/kW_to_Amp_Calculator.html to go from kW to amps at the two voltages. If your machine has starting surge current, your 60kW generator will not start it. If it has a big AC motor, the 90kW they were previously using is about right.

Maybe take something from your ladies cabinet and replace it every 28 days

I'd look into a 480 to 600 step up transformer in order to use a standard generator set.

Weld to weld front ds is 14.5”

Your VIN 9524-130XX comes back as a 1968 Kaiser Jeep. I think some depot didn't have the proper data plates at rebuild time and used some older plates they had.

Well first of all you are supposed to remove the pins from the connector body before you solder them using a special tool that nobody has. Then you must properly prep the end of the wire such that there is absolutely no corrosion of any type on all the strands or the solder won't take. Then...

That connector is no simple task to solder on. If your mechanic is not skilled as an electronics tech, don’t bother buying just the connector.

Is Fastenal 3PL running again? Better check.

That's your VIN, for sure your truck is a 1972, but your VIN number or the NK02HT is not in the database unfortunately.

They can but be aware they will spray that stuff over whatever substrate you present. If your undercarriage has rust, they will spray over it and it will continue to rust and blister up the undercoating. Then you get to scrape it all off and start over.