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"RockAuto.com"

Boy you sure are lucky to have such a good group of kids to help out. To actually have a group of kids who want to learn is amazing in itself ! I cannot get my own son to help me here let alone a group of them. All they want to do all day is play their "Video Games" !

Good looking rig so far ! Keep posting pictures of your progress.

That is where the drain is on all the trucks.

Actually this problem with this engine design goes back decades and doesn't seem to have anything to do with corrosion or water pump failure. In fact the tractor racing community has known and talked about this issue for years now. There seems to be two block designs according to "Tracey Varns"...

First off the filter works fine. It never was designed to clean all the coolant at once but to slowly pick-up the crud as time went along. The hose at the back of the block actually feeds into my coolant heater I bought from a member here (Derby) . It was originally just a drain for the block.

It's good to see someone else's work bench as cluttered as mine is ! Of course you just have the sheet metal top over wood correct ? I went with 1" thick steel plate. 4ft X 8ft long. 1" plate is the minimum needed to absorb the blow from a 24oz hammer. Learned that from an old blacksmith. Of...

Haven eaten many a meal from one of these units I can honestly say there was never a "taste" of diesel in any of the food. The way the heaters work there really is no way it can enter the food from what I've seen. I just wish I could afford one out here !

They don't "flex" like the old style rubber ones will so you get a more solid feel on the pedal. Now you will never have to replace them again, unless of course you rip them off the truck.

If you have the money you can just have a new block made like Tracey Varns did. He's the guy running a 5,000 HP Hercules in his tractor. Of course the block was made from a solid block of steel and machined out on a CNC machine. The only thing stock in this engine is the crankshaft and it was...

Now that is a good plan !

It sounds like the air governor is not working properly or the air-compressor "unloader" valves are not working right. Either way your pressure should be 120psi not 90psi. So you need to look at the governor. It is mounted on the firewall near the air filter.

When welding cast-iron you never know how large the inclusion will be. I had parts that when cut open were basically shells around an large inclusion ! Of course you must grind out the mess the inclusion caused as that is just mush metal at that point. I figured anyone who has welded cast-iron...

I totally agree with Chris here. At work we used the Federal Guideline for oil leaks . After driving the vehicle for at least 2 hours and letting it sit for 4 hours, if there isn't an 8" circle or larger of oil on the pavement under the vehicle then the leak is not considered a problem. So do...

These pictures might help Aaron.

Having welded up literally tons of cast-iron the only way to get it to hold is using "Ni-Rod" and "TIG" welding. You also must pre-heat it and then "peen" it afterward during the cool-down period. We had a customer at "Kolstrand Marine" (where I worked as a welder) that had cast-iron valves...

I might actually know the answer to this. Since the M60 tank (the main battle tank in 1969) had a fuel capacity of 385 gallons and a range of 300 miles that leaves you with 0.78 miles per gallon. That is the main reason tanks are hauled in to battle zones. So say you had two tank platoons (8...

I've never had any luck using the Black Pepper trick myself. That's why I always carry spare hoses for all the coolant lines. Upper and lower radiator hoses, 10ft of 5/8" hose and the hose for the manifold water jacket and oil cooler. You never know what will give out on you.

Basically it is what is in my "valve" box. I have a rather eclectic collection of valves I have squirrelled away over the years. Most of them new.

That "check-valve" idea is not bad ! It would involve installing another "solenoid" to release pressure when the switch was deactivated and a "check-valve" but it would provide a little safety margin if as you say the electrical went out. Of course since the differentials and transmission and...