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That's right, and you know who will be held responsible for the death ! Bad enough that someone died but since it was negligence the damaged parties can come after everything you own to.

The way to think about routing your coolant lines is the "manifold" is going to the radiator and would be considered the "pressure" side. The water pump then is the "suction" side. Any connection to the manifold then needs a connection to the water pump. Here are a few pictures to show what I mean.

All our buses use these now. A few years ago a bus lost it's front tire and it ran over a pedestrian (an elderly woman) . I don't remember if she died or not but the accident was pretty bad. After that all our buses (1400 ) got these indicators installed on them. All it takes is a glance and you...

Just add the extra air tanks. I have added over 35 gallons of extra capacity with the two tanks I installed.

If it was happening then he should have noticed the oil level drop significantly.

Having done over 400 sets of Breda brace-rod bushings (look and act just like our dog-bone bushings) I can say that the rod has stretched it's bore. Probably due to using an "over-size" bushing installer. It would act as a reamer. Seen it happen many times. Or it got stretched out due to too...

Yes springs will "take a set" if left to long loaded or even just setting there with the weight of the car or trailer. That is why they always say to put jackstands under the frame to get the wheels off the ground when the vehicle will be stored for a long period of time. The trick with the...

If I remember right some units in the first Gulf war did this when they where sent to Afgan . My nephew was a Marine then and mentioned it. They had to deal with a lot of large sharp rocks. Now don't take this as Gospel though as I only heard this second hand and cannot confirm it myself.

Yes just spray it good with some PTFE spray. You don't want to just replace it as they cost over $70.00 now for a stupid little on-off switch and only a few places carry them !

I've heard of that from "Tracey Varns" the tractor racer. He mentioned that certain blocks where "weaker" in the back then others. I cannot remember if this was from the factory drilling out the passages or not. I have seen blocks loose large sections of the rear though.

You would need something stronger then PlexiGlass to hold the proper pressure needed. The factory leak-down detector used the injector hole and about 150 PSI .

If your "Fuel Density Compensator" was bypassed then it would not matter at all if the adjustment screw was out of adjustment. The sticky "operating rod" would cause all the problems though.

I'm glad my unfortunate mistake could help someone else. At first I wasn't going to post that since it was a really boner mistake I made. I went straight from problem, "bypassing troubleshooting" into repair. That's a problem even us old crusty mechanics fall prey to. I forgot the number one...

OK, we have dealt with the coolant issue before but I guess we all need a refresher course. Most engines can just use the old "Green" anti-freeze (ethylene-glycol ) and have no problems. Now diesel engines that use "wet liners" have special needs. Due to the vibration caused by combustion...

I found a product that is really neat. It mounts underneath the house meter and allows you to connect your generator right to it. For those who don't want to spend the money on a separate power switch this is a nice clean alternative .

AC Delco #ADO-8670283 . Timken # 6712NA . Just type in TH400 front pump seal in Google.

No, it's kinda like install it backwards and the valve will not hold the pressure.

Just remember to install it correctly. If you don't the fluid will leak out.

The unit sounds great ! Just get some spin-on adapters and use some good WIX filters.

http://www.mixerandplantparts.com/Terex-14242-NO-Pressure-Switch-Set-at-15-PSI-p/14242.htm I've used this company to buy a lot of parts for my generators and trucks. Good place.