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Recently I transferred all of my stuff to Farm Bureau. It took several phone calls and the first guy flat out said "no way". I called around and settled in with an agent that came by my place, took pictures and had me insured the next day.
Short answer is just don't take no for an answer...
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I never will forget "JJ". He was one of my first helpers or apprentices and he had some pretty good skills but very little practical understanding WHY things worked like they did. Can't remember why, but we were working on a Ford 330 Industrial motor. Had to removed the distributor. I was...
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Back in the days of old, looking at the equipment in person was an option.
Not so much any more...
Trailer on a Trailer is a fairly regular thing for mounted generators. That eliminates trouble on the side of the road. Most locations have some pretty beefy forklifts. There are idiots, but...
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Sumpthin else you might try is a metric wrench. Shouldn't be metric, but tight fit - almost hammered onto the drain valve might work. Sometimes you can get a tighter fit with something like that...
Sometimes a few "love taps" with a hammer while you are pulling on the wrench will help...
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Welcome to the Outfit! And, congratulations on your new-to-you truck too! Snap us a picture of the fitting just to be sure... Maybe a few of your truck too. We like pictures around here!
Can't quite tell exactly where you are from your description (header block) for your account. There...
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Yeah. Plenty of easy things to hack that doesn't take near the effort. Especially since there are lots of numbnuts that have no password on their wireless routers or have the default cable or dsl routers...
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Sounds well thought out - and there really is something to be said for buy it, use it, scrap it and upgrade later if you want to. With you 100% on avoiding cuts into structural parts of the truck too!
Happy fabrication! Keep us up to date with pictures too.
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Like some of the other guys have already suggested - you can bypass the dryer SHORT TERM just until the new parts arrive or to get you "out of a tight spot". Just make sure that you drain the air tanks daily or several times a day if you are standing there beside the truck
Chances are that...
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That is the "wiggle tests" that I was talking about where the bearing and race part numbers are. The left to right wiggle looks at tie rod ends. The up and down checks king pins or ball joints (or upper a-arm joints).
It will be interesting to see what you find on the bearings. Chances...
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When the military says STOP the project, it means stop right where you are. Vendors won't get paid to fix anything that was work in process. Basically button it up, spare parts in the drivers seat and move on to the next project.
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@adf5565 's suggestion for parts coming from "regular parts houses". They won't have a clue about a M1008 - but if you refer to it as a K30, they will be able to locate parts on their computer that way. I thought the proper year was 1983 but it could well be 1984...
I have to admit that I...
So, the wheel bearing part numbers are in the Technical Manuals (TM's) that are posted here. The parts book is the "20P" book. Link below.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/CUCV/TM9-2320-289-20P.pdf
Page 220, Item 22 - Page 218 has an exploded view picture
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Part Number for Bearing...
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Glad that you started a nice new thread! Makes it easy for folks to help you... Need a bit more information though. How about what bearing and race? Is it for the wheels? Front? Rear? Somewhere else on the truck?
Might be worth posting a few pictures of what you are trying to do too.
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And don't hesitate to go look in the CLASSIFIEDS section here @ Steel Soldiers. We have some really first class folks here that sell parts and complete, tested and functional GenSets.
The advantage to buying one that has already been "gone over" is that you could talk to the seller and maybe...
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