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That is a scroll compressor, discharge is on top and suction (low side) is further down on the shell. Trace the small lines that come from the #11 access ports.

Bottom is typically suction on recips and scrolls.

Looks like the year is correct, the Jeep has the hinged grille. Mine is 5/53 which translates to roughly 65 Jeeps per day off the line, sounds right. Good luck with fixing it, needs a good sandblasting.

See if there is a VIN plate behind the drivers or passenger seat (forget which) on the angled surface of the sponson. There should be 4 holes. Only other place you will find it. My '53 is 51130.

Hmm, the bomb symbol is Army Ordnance. K stands for "Kaserne" which means barracks. Looking at the Wikipedia reference on US Army installations in Germany, it might be Kaserne Conn or Coleman, not sure. The US Army had a huge presence in Europe during that era.

To ID the suction (low side) access port, find the compressor. The compressor has a large line and a small line. The large line is the suction. Trace that line back until you find the access port, that is the low side. Oh and "reasonably priced" and "A/C guy" can't be used in the same sentence.

The frame does not look right for a 5 ton. Too many holes and the steering gear does not go through the frame.

The low side is always the suction which is a bigger diameter line than the high side. Borrow a Nitrogen cylinder from an A/C guy, figured you had one in your store, all my A/C service tools come from pawn shops.

Next, draw a 29" vacuum from the low side for an hour. Then, charge the 22 into the vacuum with the compressor off. When equalized, turn on the compressor and keep charging until the low side reads 60 psi with the charging valve shut. This is for a 75 degree day.

Fill the low side (big line) with nitrogen at 300 psi and go over everything with Mr. Bubble and a paintbrush. How we did it at the factory. Even the smallest bubble will cause the system to go low in a couple months.

I wonder if the clink clink happens right before the clunk when the fan goes through the radiator? Thread here somewhere with the clutch p/n, also in P manual.

So root cause improper torque/lack of threadlocker on reassy. Not a chronic family wide issue. Whew.

If I saw that at an antique store I would expect to see a $35 price tag. Flea market $20.

You can use your finger to pop open the latch from the inside. Don't ask me to explain how to find it. Sounds like you may be missing link rods from the inner and outer handles to the latch?

I kinda think removing the skin is a can of worms you don't want to open. Suggest aluminum filled body filler in the holes, da sand it down, thick coat of Behr, call it good.

It's an air baffle. It goes where you found it. The stencil number is atypical, looks like the depot stenciled that on there as part of the rebuild process.

Mind is blown here as well. Why did you not use the paperwork that the seller provided you to apply for title? Bonded titles are for when you don't have any paperwork at all.

People use Behr because it is cheap and you don't have to pay expensive hazmat shipping.

The motor number and frame number never matched at the factory to the best of my knowledge. The VIN plate is not on the dash, it is on the firewall, in the center. Lots of times it is painted over and hard to see. Your frame VIN is in the correct range for late war production, I'll verify...

Data plate with "overdrive" says in German that 5th gear is locked out. Your truck was rebuilt by the US Army in Germany and returned to the US before being disposed.