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All you can remove is two cylinders and some hoses, the contol valve and air-hydraulic power pack has to remain to lift the cab. Then you have to go buy appropriate caps to keep dirt out of the unused ports on the valves. Sounds like a lot of work with no benefit.
Iron Will, the transfer case is a small part of what you need, you also need rear driveshaft, pto, pillow block with crossmember, engine speed servo with brackets, etc etc. i would find a 20 horse Wisconsin V4HD and use that to drive the generator.
Torque the can to the recommended level. Verify your oil pressure is properly regulated. Set the can on a flat surface and verify it is flat. Make sure no old gasket material remained in the groove before you installed the new one. That's all I can think of.
Call around to crane service companies to see if they have any good used pieces. A lot of times they have perfectly good cable they have to throw away because of time in service or a kink or fray in one spot. I have 7 lifetime supplies of 1/2 cable that came from such a company.
You can see the brake shoes easily as there are no backing plates or dust covers on the axles. Have the TMs on a laptop or hard copy. Bring a multimeter. Have all the heavy duty wrecker services phone numbers handy. If you break down, there is nowhere to obtain parts from quickly.
That's one of those vehicles where you can say "the only thing I could use on it was the shadow!" Seriously, with Cameron Mfg making so many panels now, it has hope to be a survivor.
Looks great. And a great idea on using Amtrak. Trailer shouldn't be swaying, I pull mine at 70 mph with an empty 4 cyl Ford Ranger and it just follows straight.
Rough as in actually rough, or poor condition with flakes? The original CARC paint has the consistency of 600 grit sandpaper, so it could be considered rough. To repaint CARC, it is usually easiest to sand it mechanically rather than strip it using chemicals. Good luck either way. I painted...
Remember, air pressure off, fan engaged, air pressure on, disengaged. The clutch's resting position is engaged. So in your case, air pressure is being supplied continuously and preventing the clutch from driving the fan. Follow the TM's diagnostic process, it is very helpful. The air...
My suggestion is to pick an era/theatre and do the mods that are appropriate for that time, rather than throw the kitchen sink at it. Mine is super early, so I am keeping it that way, rather than adding hundreds of upgrades that came after 1985. Sure is tempting to put those 24 bolt combat...
Bill, your picture is of a multifuel engine, you posted in the M880 area, that is the flame heater, disconnect and cap off the fuel line leading to it, it is not used except in sub-zero climates.
Congrats on the wrecker purchase. The good thing about a multifuel 5 ton is that the wiring is nearly the same as a deuce. You will need to carefully determine the number tags on the wires and insert the proper wires into the ignition switch. Follow the wiring diagram in the TM. Tape up the...
I've seen those at Ft Hood back in the day. I did not want one back then as there were so many holes drilled in the body that after someone removed all the add-ons the trailer would look like swiss cheese. I think these were a depot mod by Tobyhanna. Not sure what the designation was.
Also, that symbol on the door is an original WWII stateside service command insignia. The front bumper is a simple heavy C-channel that I would get fabricated locally. It has a bottom cut out for the winch cable.
The rear hubs should be 6 hole Budd like the front. Something went wrong there. Yes to 6 volt system. Super easy to convert to 12 volt using WWII components available.
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