Search results

OP talks about walking the rollers up race to there correct place in another thread. So sounds good to me and I don't believe you could ever correctly feel the lash without a dial indicator. So guess we barn yard them or buy a dial indicator. I barn yard.

Well looks like you got it so I just ordered mine. Looks a little different and says it is limited use 4 to 10 times depending on abuse. I just need it to work once and it paid for it's self in no head ache. It was 54 bucks shipped and I much rather spend 54 bucks than to pull a hub or be stuck...

No it is a good question. They don't say percisely why but something about RP618 which must be an industry standard. It was not said before in this thread but in other threads the dial indicator was talked about. So if we want to do it right then the high preload then preload then dial indicator...

I tell you what South East buy it use it and I will buy it from you. You just pay shipping to me. Yea what do you do if someone is on the road and this happens with a inner flat. Seems like no matter what your going to pull the hub, repack the bearing and replace the inner seal and the stud to...

Yep always a correct tool. Think I am going to get one for my tool box just to have.

The question is how much you want to do. You could pull the injectors and put kind of lube down into each cylinder. By pulling the injectors you could double check they were two hole injectors before you install the motor. You could pull the center plug on the IP Head and put some lube down...

The Detroit dealer did not know what it was. After talking to some members it was a military upgrade and it pulls dust from the air box when running any boost. Just for smitts and giggles I thought I would find out how many psi the valve opened at. I took it off and hooked it to my house air...

That's pretty cool if you ask me now that is with an empty bed.

The last hub I shot that was grease hubs on a 939 series was 120*

There might be some members here that are selling the same thing for a better price. Also they most likely have serviced the machine correctly. Do you know if the truck is unrestored serviced or what service he said has been done. Will you have the truck hauled or you thinking about driving it...

As 98G said must be a true title not sf97. If it is a true title then he is floating it so he did not have to pay the sales tax when he got it. If you don't mind me asking what is he asking for it? Did you ask him if he is a member of Steel Soldiers ?

Not to mention the trouble makers.:whistle:

Wonder if who ever designer of the axle was when it first had the ball type thought by taking out the Allen plugs and installing zerk fittings then pumping them full. Then replace the Allen plug to grease the ball type axle. Myself the ones I have done with a cross type u joints I clean out the...

It's OK so never fear Mighty Mouse is Here. Remove the brass fittings and look down in side. Or remove just the top caps with the brass fittings. If you see a Allen head there they are the newer style and you adjust them buy turning the Allen head clockwise to increase the pop pressure. Go with...

I sent mine to Chris by paypal and don't care if he buys his wife dinner with it. This is a great sight and been lots of help to me in all ways.

Well since the front axles don't have the outer grease seal we can do it to them. Myself when I do a axle job on a truck that has an oil seal inner not like some of our military stuff I am real care full with the install. Most of the time I use my correct wheel dolly as it helps so much. If I am...

If I remember right the differancs were the way the pop pressure is adjusted and the tips. Look at you tips and see how many holes it has. From reading SS threads 3500 pop seems to be the norm now. As per the TM's you should have one hole replaced with two hole injector but I believe a good set...

Well I guess I better start to read the hole thread and look at the post dates. Guess I got 10 years paid.

Myself I go to 150 /200 foot pounds while spinning the tire. Back off then go to 50. Back off 1/8 and never had over heat or leaking outer wheel seal. Trucks without an outer oil seal I go 1/4.

Run the thumb screw in to bypass the electric solenoid is the first thing I do when I have any trouble not starting. It is the fastest way to exclude that the solenoid is the problem.