Heated fuel tank project, biodiesel, WVO..

[cranetruck]

I realize that this is a kind of "Low feedback" subject, but a lot of viewers are registerd, so I'll continue with my updates here for the sake of completion.

Using the control panel pictured above, the procedure will be as follows:

In cold weather (below about 60F):
1) Make sure the pump and return flow for diesel is selected ("AUX" tank)
2) Turn on the accessory switch and start engine. Use radiator cover to help warm the engine.
3) Turn on the "HEATER" switch to let coolant circulate in the "MAIN" fuel tank.
4) Observe the temperature gauges. It may take up to 1/2 hour to warm the engine and the fuel.

When the fuel temperature reaches 70 deg F or so, proceed as follows:

5) Switch to "MAIN" fuel pump, but let the return flow continue to the "AUX" tank, purging the diesel from the fuel lines/filters
back to the "AUX" tank. This may take 30 seconds or so. The "FUEL FLOW" warning light should come on.
6) Flip the "RETURN" switch to "MAIN" and the "FUEL FLOW" warning light should go off.

The engine is now running on heated fuel from the main tank and the return is guided back to the main tank as well.

Drive and operate the truck as usual. When shutting down, you will need to purge the biodiesel/veggie oil fuel frome the system.
Proceed as follows:
1) Switch to "AUX" fuel pump. The warning light should come on. Let engine run for about 60 seconds on diesel while pushing any
biodiesel/veggie oil out into the main tank. It's okay to have some diesel flow into the main tank.
2) Switch "RETURN" to "AUX" position. The warning light will go out.
3) Run engine for normal 5 to 10 minute cool-down period and shut it down.

I'm still doing some plumbing and there is some wiring left to do, but should be able to run some tests shortly.

Bjorn
1968 M49A2C modified.

 

[Desert Rat]

Bjorn,

Shouldn't you say 1968 M49A2C Highly Modified?

 

[cranetruck]

Yeah Brent, I know what you mean, but it's like saying that a woman is very pregnant or somebody is more or less dead, don't you think?

I like to think that my deuce is like project of an erector set and I'm just playing with the parts available.
Sometimes I have to use commercial parts until I can find the right military ones. It's all a matter of money, operating with little or no money delays things too.
I want my deuce to be "all that it/she/he can be" but not in the Army, necessarily.

Bjorn
1968 Superdeuce

 

[red devils dude]

this thing needs a manual a big one.

 

[cranetruck]

 

[Recovry4x4]

Way cool!

 

[cranetruck]

Good to have you back again, Kenny. No trees down, eh?

Got to a testing stage today. Ran the engine for an hour without getting coolant flow to the tank. The solenoid valve was energized, but the coolant pressure was to low to open the valve.
After bypassing the valve, the tank started to heat up.
Next step: Replace that shut-off solenoid valve with one that opens with zero pressure...the one I have now requires 2-3 psi to open.
The controls on the dash work, don't have the temp gauge yet and I still need a valve to complete the return flow plumbing.
Let's see, what else, yeah the 24 to 12 volt regulator works well (picture above some place). Ran the CB off it for a while.

Back to looking for more solenoid valve(s).

Bjorn

 

[Polverone]

Bjorn,
Always enjoy reading your "how to" and informational advice. I wish I had your experience to do the same.
On the 24-12 volt regulator you installed, did you make that yourself or is it available to the layman?

 

[cranetruck]

The regulator is homemade. I could make more of them, but I'm not sure you'd want to pay $35-40 for one.
It's good for 3 amps continous duty. I't kind'a foolproof and protected from automotive power supply noise. transient spikes etc.
It's a "series" type regulator and will dissipate as much power (heat) as it supplies, the heatsink will get hot when putting out the full 3 amps. If no power is needed (CB radio on standby) no power is dissipated. The advantage with a series regulator is that it's a very "clean" power, good for radios.
Didn't encapsulate this one yet, but will eventually. Anything electronic costs a lot in small quantities.

Bjorn

 

[rmgill]

Bjorn, would you mind posting the circuit diagram for your regulator? I have access to some electronics here at work and being able to fab one of these up myself would be nice. I take it that it's just the top box with the heat sink right?

 

[cranetruck]

No problem Ryan, I'll get the diagram "cleaned up" and post it. It'll be a few days.

Bjorn

 

[Polverone]

That would be great if you posted the diagram. I had 2 years of electronics in High School and might be able to fumble my way through the making of one, provided you have a parts list also.

 

[cranetruck]

This may not appear to be MV related but it is, made a batch of hand soap yesterday.
The biodiesel process produces a lot of glycerine and by adding lye disolved in water makes the basis for hand soap.
I have tried the glycerine by itself as a degreaser and it worked great, now the soap bars must sit for several weeks, so the result is not yet in.

Bjorn

 

[cranetruck]

This may not appear to be MV related but it is, made a batch of hand soap yesterday.
The biodiesel process produces a lot of glycerine and by adding lye disolved in water makes the basis for hand soap.
I have tried the glycerine by itself as a degreaser and it worked great, now the soap bars must sit for several weeks, so the result is not yet in.

Bjorn

 

[rdixiemiller]

Bjorn
You should still consider pneumatic actuated valves. I have a couple of Swagelok 3 way valves, 1/4 tube. I have found a Swagelok 3/8 npt 3 way on E-Bay for 10 bucks that will fit the pneumatic actuators I have. That would give you the most reliable setup, using the deuces air system.
The valves are not hard to find if you scrounge.

 

[cranetruck]

Robert, I found the valves I need. I'm using two valves, one "normally open" and one "normally closed" to take the place of the 3-way valve.
It's for the fuel return lines. Everything is installed and wired except for the
one normally open valve, which should be here tomorrow.

One must check the spec for the valves, some require a minimum pressure to open.

I did consider air operated valves after you mentioned it the first time. It would make things somewhat more complicated since another solenoid valve would be needed for each one (with a vent) with the electrical toggle switches i have.
I like the electrical switches, they are smaller and I have a couple of relays operating off the switches as well,
which gives me the "Fuel Flow" error light (explained up above somewhere).

Thanks for your input!

Bjorn

 

[tnordahl]

Hi.
I would also like to fill'er up at the nearest Burger King, however I think I am missing something.
If you'all look at the picture, there should be a density thingy right there.
Question is: Do I need it?


Tom
M621 AKA M35A2

 

[cranetruck]

Hello Tom, glad you could join us all the way from Norway!

About the density thing, it's known as a fuel density compensator. It adjusts the maximum fuel delivery
to the injection pump based on the viscosity (not density). Gasoline more fuel, diesel less fuel. If it isn't malfunctining, there is no need to bypass it.
However for biodiesel/cooking oil with a higher viscosity and lower heating value it works against it by lowering the fuel delivery.
If you plan on using biodiesel, it is better to bypass it or to turn the fuel adjustment up some.

Bjorn

PS, Please put your location in your profile, it's a forum requirement.

 

[rmgill]

So biodiesel doesn't have the same heating value on the scale of it's viscosity?

 

[cranetruck]

No Ryan, it has less heating value than gasoline, but is much more viscous. It does not fit the curve, however, biodiesel contains more oxygen and will give you more power, say, under "full throttle" making up for the compensator compensating in the wrong direction.
For biodiesel turn up the fuel setting.

Bjorn
MVPA19212