The bottom one.
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Looking for recommendations on Injection Pump rebuild in the Ft. Worth area
- Thread starter Jack Lope
- Start date
CUCVLOVER
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- west Tennessee, just outside Milan
Thus one right?
If you need it send me a PM with your address and I will snail mail it to you.
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cucvrus
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Crown of Thorns is up and running. 100% line on line timing Started up went on fast idle idled down and nice and smooth. Left it run and took a break for lunch.
While re-routing the wires on the passenger side because I had them on the outside of the fuel lines, I'm afraid I'm destroying the alternator. The bolt holding the red and orange wires was on tight and while trying to loosen it, I broke the wire end connections. I'm not worried about those, but I'm beginning to think that this bolt should not be spinning in the alternator. It doesn't seem to be unscrewing and I'm afraid to keep trying. (pic's 1 and 2) Also, behind the last glow plug, the is this other plug. What orientation should it be plugged in? I pulled it out and didn't notice which prong should be plugged into which slot. (pic's 3 and 4) [edit] As of now, unless I'm missing something, all I have left is to fix the connector ends on the wires going to the alternator, determine if I broke the alternator and connect the fuel filter. Making progress.
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cucvrus
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Crown of Thorns M1009 is alive again
You done fine. The alternator will need repaired. The stud is broken loose inside the alternator. The fast idle sending unit on the right rear cylinder head can be plugged in either way. No right or wrong. Just so it plugs snug. If it is loose it will over heat the prongs and melt the inside of the sending unit. Keep posting and keep the band-aids handy. I completed my injection pump installation and it runs fine. I took a trip to Rausch Creek for a road test and done some flexing.
You done fine. The alternator will need repaired. The stud is broken loose inside the alternator. The fast idle sending unit on the right rear cylinder head can be plugged in either way. No right or wrong. Just so it plugs snug. If it is loose it will over heat the prongs and melt the inside of the sending unit. Keep posting and keep the band-aids handy. I completed my injection pump installation and it runs fine. I took a trip to Rausch Creek for a road test and done some flexing.
Well, if not for the things I broke during the re-assembly, I would have been able to start the truck yesterday. Got the alternator fixed today. It cost $11. Found a great shop. I think I'll have him rebuild my starter too. I still have to tap it with a hammer on occasion. The shop is Metroplex Alternator & Starter in Arlington, TX. I would recommend him to anyone.
So the plan is to start the truck today. I don't have the drain plug yet, but I screwed the broken one in hoping it will work. I hammered a phillips screwdriver into the back of it so I can screw it in and out. I've taken the three ground wires that were connected to a bolt on the intake manifold, and temporarily attached them like this. The bolt seems to be getting warm/hot and I could smell a slight electrical smell. Also, the starters seem to turning slowly. The batteries were on tenders, so they are fairly well charged. Before I continued trying, I thought I would check in for advice. I don't want to burn anything up. I haven't plugged in the injection pump wire yet, but have bled fuel out of the top plug in the filter housing.
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Are you bleeding the system with the glow plugs in? If so take 10 minutes and pull all of them out. Your starter will thank you. It is a lot easier on the starter to turn over an engine with no compression. Put some cardboard on your inner fender well and turn it over until the mist from the injectors is spraying out the glow plug holes.
Thanks. I still have the glow plugs in. I've been cranking and then taking a break for several minutes, then cranking again. The ground bolt was really hot, but it seems to only get hot after cranking. I take this as an indication of the starter getting hot. I was beginning to wonder how long of cranking is normal after the fuel filter was bled. I thought I would have had some sputtering by now.
cucvrus
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If that ground cable is getting hot is it possible that it is not making a good contact? Do you have the star ground washers and are the nuts and bolts clean and tight at the connections? Someone mentioned removing the glow plugs to bleed the system. Good idea. I have another CUCV to slave off of so I never have these issues. I crank it 2 minutes and let it set and then it will start after a few more cranks. But I have my glow plugs disconnected and still in. My new injection pump has been in a week now and it solved several issues I had with the old one. It runs great and I am happy with it. It also came from Diesel care in Memphis.
The nuts and bolts are very clean. The wires are bolted to the bolt very tight, but the bolt is not tight in the head. I didn't know if I should keep screwing it down in further. It seems there is no bottom in the hole.
cucvrus
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Do you have the intake off?
It's running! But, now it won't turn off! yikes! Suggestions? Yes, Intake manifold is off. [edit] Ok, it finally turned off. I had rev'd it up a bit shortly before turning it off, came in started this message and let the truck idle, went back out and finally turned off. It kinda sputtered out, not a immediate cut off.
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cucvrus
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Start it again. I would reassemble it after you have it running and starting and shutting off with the key. Do you have the red wire on the injection pump connection? And the green wires on the advance and fast idle?
Yes, the two green wires are connected to the outside posts, fast idle on driver side and pink wire connected on the middle. I just started and turned off about three-four times. Seems to be working ok at the moment.
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cucvrus
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I think it is fine. I think the loose ground may be part of the issue and that it was loaded up with fuel. I would reassemble it completely and take it for a ride. Did you change the lift pump?
I did not change the lift pump. I'm letting the engine cool down for a bit. I didn't see any leaks, but it did idle for a while and it's a little hot to the touch at the moment. I think I'm seeing some antifreeze leaking out of the passenger side of the aluminum crossover pipe. I cranked the bolts down just a little to tighten it up, but we'll see if it still seeps. When the alternator was off, i removed the bracket to paint it and maybe tightened down one side too tight when reassembling, causing the other side to seep. Just guessing, but we'll see.
cucvrus
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I am guessing that you loosened the stud that holds the crossover manifold down when you removed the nut from the alternator bracket. Remove the nut and bracket again and tight the stud alone then reinstall the bracket and nut.