M1008 dragged home today...

[FrankenCub]

Did anyone suggest removing the glow plugs to get the motor spinning freely during your attempts to bleed the fuel system? It spins 20 times faster and purges the air in less time and strain on the starter and batteries. It is 20 minutes more work. But so is changing a burnt out the starter and wiring harness. Just a suggestion. Now back to my regularly scheduled programs. Firewood unlimited.

Nope, it wasn't recommended but sure makes sense lol. I'm making a parts run today so going to buy new glow plugs while I'm there. I might as well change them if I'm going to pull them to spin faster.
Four have previously been replaced but the other owner, the other 4 haven't so I am going to remove all doubt.
Thanks

 

[FrankenCub]

Was finally enough above zero today that I figured I'd get the glow plugs out and thought I'd spin it over a bit to get the injector and lines better primed. Well, the blowing snow and wind cut it short, not going to bother getting it primed...I need a garage lol. Me meter doesn't want to zero out so I don't know how accurate it's going to be. I don't know if the cold can effect it being digital or if it has another problem, closest it gets is .4 ohms. Using that as a base and subtracting it from my readings, all the glow plugs fall out of spec. Seven of them fall under 1 ohm and one is quite a ways above three ohms, I think it was 20 something ohms. I'm going to retest them once everything warms up inside for a while. Doesn't matter really, I have new 60G's to put back in. The truck had 4 13G's and 4 Wellmans. To my surprise all of them came out without issue, not one of them were swelled, yet. I did bypass the glow plug resistors to make sure they only receive 12v in the future.
With a new ignition switch I have power back thankfully, I hate tracing out shorted wiring.
Tomorrow is supposed to be 38°, if it makes it I will continue priming it. Crossing my fingers I don't need a new IP!

Another issue I found is there is a cob for the horn and the BOL switches removed, looks like someone did some wire splicing or something to bypass the switches so a fix to that is added to the list. Also there is a relay missing, either the volt gauge relay or the BOL relay, I'm assuming it's the former. The plate they mount to is also missing and the wiring for the above hanging behind the dash.


edit to add new readings. Meter now warm was farther from zero, .7 ohms
Delco ........ Wellmans
.7 ohms ..... 1.1 ohms
.9 ohms ..... 1 ohm
.7 ohms ..... 1 ohm
.6 ohms ......16.7 ohms

 

[cucvrus]

I don't know what this means. I am out of my league. They either work or they don't. I never tested them with an ohm meter. Hot wire and ground them. Puff the smoke rises immediately.

 

[Tinstar]

Why test them?

Install new ones and drive on.

 

[FrankenCub]

I have new ones to install anyway, just one of those OCD things I guess. If I'm replacing it I want to know whats up with it so I wanted to know how they stood up to the TM specs. Anywho, I'm starting to think my meter of off kilter. The new glow plugs read much like the Delcos I took out but still don't meet specs. I'll keep the old ones in a box in case I need one. And probably should buy a new meter.

 

[Tinstar]

If you want a deal on a great meter on the bay.
Surplus Fluke 27/FM DMM
Built for the Military and are built like bricks.
Case twice as thick as civilian models and OD Green.

I found several from a seller that were NOS and never issued.
I bought all he had.
They are older but still hold their own with today's $600+ models.
Paperwork included in mine show the Govt paid over $500 each for these.

Excellent DMM for the money.

Fyi

 

[FrankenCub]

Thanks, I'll look into that if I don't end up needing a new IP. Fluke makes great equipment, I've used their stuff a lot as an electrician with my brother in law. Never owned any myself but used it enough to know their quality.
Never though about surplus military Fluke equipment.

 

[FrankenCub]

Looks like the verdict is in. After working on the truck today and talking to one of the mechanics at the local diesel shop, looks like I'm in need of an injection pump
Was in the back of my head so at least it wasn't a surprise. Anyone know where I can pick up a known good used pump?

 

[Patattack]

Don't waste your money on used pumps there only good as cores, rebuild it there around 400-500 to do. Trust me you'll be a lot happier!!!!!

 

[FrankenCub]

Don't waste your money on used pumps there only good as cores, rebuild it there around 400-500 to do. Trust me you'll be a lot happier!!!!!

Unfortunately I'm not going to have that kind of cash for a few months and I'm running low on fire wood, my stock pile is 5 miles away. The diesel shop told me $600 for an exchange, rebuild would be cheaper but depending on how the rotor was the rebuild may be close to exchange price anyway. I've seen kits to rebuild them but I'm not sure I want to tackle an IP, it being the heart of the whole works. I may not have a choice but to buy a reman'ed one.

 

[marks86]

nice find, just a heads up I'm in Albany NY don't know how far that is from you, but I have tons of little parts for that truck, if you need anything.

 

[FrankenCub]

Don't waste your money on used pumps there only good as cores, rebuild it there around 400-500 to do. Trust me you'll be a lot happier!!!!!

I found the place that cucvrus has mentioned in other posts and it looks like I can't do any better for price so in a couple weeks I'll be ordering one from them.

 

[FrankenCub]

nice find, just a heads up I'm in Albany NY don't know how far that is from you, but I have tons of little parts for that truck, if you need anything.

Thanks, I'm pretty happy with it despite a couple issues. Gonna work out to be a good truck. I'm about 2 hours away from you. I will actually be needing some small stuff after I get the IP replaced. I'll send you a PM in a bit.

 

[cucvrus]

I found the place that cucvrus has mentioned in other posts and it looks like I can't do any better for price so in a couple weeks I'll be ordering one from them

I have installed no fewer then 10 on several different CUCV's they have worked great for me and my customers. So that is all I can ask for. The price is great and it makes a world of difference in starting and drivability. While you have the intake off. I recommend you change the coolant manifold gaskets. Easy to do while you are right there. Good Luck. Wise choice not to put a used injection pump on.

 

[FrankenCub]

I found the place that cucvrus has mentioned in other posts and it looks like I can't do any better for price so in a couple weeks I'll be ordering one from them

I have installed no fewer then 10 on several different CUCV's they have worked great for me and my customers. So that is all I can ask for. The price is great and it makes a world of difference in starting and drivability. While you have the intake off. I recommend you change the coolant manifold gaskets. Easy to do while you are right there. Good Luck. Wise choice not to put a used injection pump on.

Prices I seen on a few used IPs weren't that much cheaper than the reman'd one so that was a no brainer. And I seen through old threads that you've had really good comment about them. Good idea with the coolant gaskets, will also do the valve cover gaskets and oil fill grommet, they're both pretty leaky.
Now just to hurry up and wait....sigh

 

[FrankenCub]

Never mind...found it..

 

[FrankenCub]

Anyone have a NAPA part number for the oil fill grommet? I picked up the rest of my gaskets today but neither Advance or NAPA even showed the oil fill grommet.

Out of curiosity I dropped the mil part# (14028942) into NAPA's search and it came up with NAPA part # NOE 7031301. They had to order it so I'll know Tuesday if it's right or not.

 

[FrankenCub]

My Gen2 light wasn't coming on when key turned to run but I thought it might be a bad bulb. Now realizing that the relay missing next to the starter relay is the Gen2 relay, will that cause the light to be out? My voltage gauge hasn't worked so can I borrow the relay from there to replace the Gen2 relay?

 

[doghead]

GM part numbers are in the parts tm.

 

[FrankenCub]

I've been looking in TM-20P and have yet to find a part number. Even searching "relay" doesn't bring it up in the list. It shows the images of the relays and what number, but going to the list below has the number omitted. Goint towards the end on the TM where you can look the figure and the part also has them omitted.