M1010 for my daughter the field biologist

[tim292stro]

The tacos were good so you can't have them back (I'm not sure you'd want them at this point ).

Yes that is partially the type of "confusion" I would have expected. As for the charge stabilizing, you are also not beating it with variable loads like winch and inverter use, or leaving lights or wipers on for extended periods are you (like your daughter might do in the field)? I'd expect that to have a similar effect over time, load disturbances should trigger oscillation in that setup.

Did you happen to measure output currents from each alternator while it was charging? If I'm reading your numbers right the Gnd-12V battery was the one reading 15.3V right (or was it the 12V-24V battery)?

 

[jpg]

The front battery sits between ground and the 12V distribution bar. The rear battery sits between the front battery and the 24V distribution bar. The rear battery went without an alternator for a few days, living off a maintenance charger instead. When it got its belt back, the rear battery read 15.3V while the front battery read 13.1V with both alternators running. I ran an errand, and they were both at 14.2V when I got home.

The rear battery serves only the starter. My GPs run off the front battery. The truck starts quickly, so I figured the maintenance charger could replenish what was drawn from the rear battery.

So the fully charged front battery got 13.1V while the depleted rear battery got 15.3V. I guess the maintenance charger didn't do as well as I'd hoped maintaining that battery. It's only a 0.8A charger on a 1100CCA battery, but looking at the voltages it seemed to be doing OK for the few days I used it that way...

For my daughter's field use, I plan to install a house bank.

 

[Another Ahab]

The front battery sits between ground and the 12V distribution bar.

For my daughter's field use, I plan to install a house bank.

Is a "house bank" just another way to say distribution outlets?

 

[jpg]

Is a "house bank" just another way to say distribution outlets?

In boats and RVs, the "house bank" is the set of batteries that power non-engine things like lights and appliances and climate control. You have a separate "engine bank", sometimes called the "starter bank", so you can always start the engine even if you accidentally deplete the house bank. House bank batteries are usually deep cycle, designed for small loads over long periods of time, and to handle being largely depleted sometimes. Engine bank batteries are designed for delivering lots of Cold Cranking Amps in a big hurry, and then to be immediately recharged. Internally, these 2 types of battery are engineered very differently.

You typically have a mechanism that allows the alternator to recharge both banks, while keeping them isolated from each other. That mechanism typically allows the house bank to help with starting, if it has enough juice. It never allows house load to deplete the engine/starter batteries.

 

[jpg]

M1010 Cab cable opening grommet

The M1010 has a cable opening at the back passenger side of the cab. I run 110VAC through that opening, to feed battery chargers etc. when parked long term. I found a grommet that fits the hole well, to protect the cable from the metal edges of the hole.
http://www.skygeek.com/mil-standard-ms35489-18-elastic-grommet.html shipped me one for $8.38, about half of which was shipping cost. The manufacturer will sell you 70 for $50 plus shipping, but $50 is their minimum order.

 

[jpg]

Just completed a 1,000 mile road trip to see Penn State play Illinois. I have a nephew who is a senior at Penn State, and it was a bit of a family reunion.

I did my usual pre-road-trip inspection, and found coolant on the driveway. The lower alternator belt ate a hole in the lower radiator hose again. I'd fixed this by trimming 2" off the hose, but evidently the engine moves enough when driving that the belt still hits the hose sometimes. It doesn't touch in the driveway, but it touched somewhere.

I ordered a new hose, but it wouldn't arrive until the next day, so I made do with a generic hose that was the right length and diameters. To shield that hose from the belt, I installed an exhaust pipe patch, with a generous dollop of black RTV to keep it from slipping. It was ugly, but it didn't leak and it didn't rub the belt.

In the pictures, the hose on the right is stock. The left hose I shortened. The hose shield is like a wide hose clamp. It's intended to patch an exhaust pipe. I used the fiber pad to protect the hose from the clamp's tightening mechanism, and I used RTV to keep it in place, since I couldn't tighten it much. The hose has kinks, but it worked well enough for highway driving at autumn temperatures in the northeast. I used the no-pressure cap too, to minimize the stress on that hose.



I traveled with everything I'd need to drain the cooling system and replace hoses on the road. Fortunately, this hose worked fine. If it weren't so kinked, I'd be tempted to use it instead of the hose that the computers say is correct.

Summit has stainless steel hoses. I might go with that. I can use a 90-degree elbow out of the radiator, and then route the hose clear of the belt.

 

[jpg]

Prior to my 1000-mile road trip, my belts were tensioned properly. Now, they're so stretched out that I don't have enough range of adjustment to bring them to proper tension. I just ordered some NAPA power rated belts. They use kevlar cords internally. Maybe they won't stretch out so quickly.

 

[jpg]

I finally traced down my current drain. It's the upper alternator, the 12V Leece Neville installed as part of the Plan B Mod.

When I disconnect the cable from the forward battery negative post, I measure 13V and 8.5 milliamps between the cable and the post. I tried pulling fuses, and found nothing. I went through the distribution blocks, removing one wire at a time trying to isolate the problem. I finally disconnected everything from the batteries. The last thing I tried was the wire from the upper 12V alternator to the upper battery. That was it!


I'm not sure what to do now. The alternator is new, and has only 2 wires attached. The wire on the right goes to the negative post of the rear battery, which connects to the positive post of the front battery. The wire on the left goes to ground.

So when the truck sits idle and everything is turned off, that alternator consumes about 1/10 of a watt of energy. I'll put a trickle charger on it for now, and contact the manufacturer, I guess.

 

[Another Ahab]

Just completed a 1,000 mile road trip to see Penn State play Illinois. I have a nephew who is a senior at Penn State, and it was a bit of a family reunion.

I ordered a new hose, but it wouldn't arrive until the next day, so I made do with a generic hose that was the right length and diameters. To shield that hose from the belt, I installed an exhaust pipe patch, with a generous dollop of black RTV to keep it from slipping. It was ugly, but it didn't leak and it didn't rub the belt.

I guess I should know but I confess that I don't:

- What is "RTV", some self-sealing mastic of some kind or something?

Also who won the game!?

 

[JoshHefnerX]

Not sure I understand why you have such a problem w/ the belt rubbing. These 6.2s were pretty widely used, and haven't really heard of this problem elsewhere. Was a bracket changed out on this such that the belt alignment is screwy?

 

[VPed]

RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing sealant. Silicone sealant.

 

[Skinny]

I wonder if the current draw on that alternator is because that model is self exciting and requires no remote turn on. I have the same exact one and plan on installing so if its a normal situation, maybe a key activated solenoid would do the trick. Or just put a solar panel on it anyway and eliminate the issue.

 

[tim292stro]

Self exciting alternators should still go to sleep 1uA or less (0.000001) - they wait to see a frequency on the stator coils before waking up and turning on. For those of you who do electronics with embedded microprocessors, the most common way is to use a counter on the input, and then wake up on a given interval (2 seconds) to check and clear the counter. If it is above a threshold on the next wake interval, that means the stator is seeing spinning pulses above the minimum speed for full turn-on.

That level of current sounds like diode rectifier leakage - and it sounds high...

 

[Skinny]

That's great but if Leece Neville says it is acceptable then none of that matters.

 

[jpg]

That's great but if Leece Neville says it is acceptable then none of that matters.

LN says it's a re-man using non-LN parts. It was sold to me as a new LN. I am pusuing this.

 

[jpg]

Not sure I understand why you have such a problem w/ the belt rubbing. These 6.2s were pretty widely used, and haven't really heard of this problem elsewhere. Was a bracket changed out on this such that the belt alignment is screwy?

The M1010 has a unique alternator configuration, requiring a different lower radiator hose. I've not been able to find a part # for that hose. There are threads on SS that talk about this. Some folks modify the K30 hose, which I tried to do. The TM mentions a lower hose shield, which is not available.

 

[Skinny]

I'm not too familiar with the hose issue. Would a universal one from Jegs or Summit work? I have so much work on the ambulance rv conversion so I have not even crossed this bridge yet. All I did was purchase a 12v LN replacement to get rid of the DUVAC, haven't even touched the wiring yet.

 

[ODFever]

I just had a crazy thought, jpg. Is there any way that you could install a belt tensioner to your 6.2L to gently press the belt inward and away from your lower radiator hose? Look for a belt tensioner that has a bracket that you can mount to the engine. I'm not sure what would work because I don't own a M1010. It's worth a trip to the local junk yard to find a bracket that would work.

 

[jpg]

I'm not too familiar with the hose issue. Would a universal one from Jegs or Summit work? I have so much work on the ambulance rv conversion so I have not even crossed this bridge yet. All I did was purchase a 12v LN replacement to get rid of the DUVAC, haven't even touched the wiring yet.

Whatever you do, hang onto the hose you have! Don't repeat my mistake. We replaced all the rubber, and trashed the old hose before we realized the K30 replacement rubs the belt. I wish I still had that old hose, to use as a model for finding a new one.

 

[Csm Davis]

The M1010 has a unique alternator configuration, requiring a different lower radiator hose. I've not been able to find a part # for that hose. There are threads on SS that talk about this. Some folks modify the K30 hose, which I tried to do. The TM mentions a lower hose shield, which is not available.

Jpg look for an upper radiator hose shield and use it down on the lower