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M1078 LMTV Fix-up Thread

wheelspinner

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I have noticed when replacing the headlights on my truck recently that the wiring behind the bumper is pretty crispy. I'm making plans to completely rewire the truck. I don't like the idea of it one day burning to the ground due to the insulation flaking out of the wiring harness.

My plan is to use plywood to lay out a new wiring harness template using the existing one. I'm going to make a template for each harness in the truck.
Chris I have parts trucks here that we could pull complete harnesses out of for templates
 

CallMeColt

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So, I have not done much work to the truck, but been gathering parts.

M66 turret with all hardware is in hand.

Entire PTO winch setup is in hand.

I should have a full A/C install kit in hand by the end of the month.

Triple checking to be sure I have all needed parts to install everything before moving ahead.

Truck however is running like a top & I have been driving it a lot.
 

coachgeo

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maybe cut some fuel line or similar and poke into the holes of the weld on tabs placed.... then run cord back thru them t help protect the cord... or smaller fuel line and slip over the rope and slide all that into each hole as you lace it down?
 

Bill Nutting

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agree.... even if you spend for new instead of reconditioned at about 100 bucks each for similar at walmart.... they fit good and do you well for a long time. Money saved can go to other parts of the reconditioning the truck

UPDATE- day late...... see your getting the 6tl's. They will last little longer likely though.
No matter which batteries you use, they will last alot longer if you install a 24 volt battery tender. I have two flooded batteries in my M37 that sat a lot more than got used. They lasted 10 years. I attribute that to the battery tender. All my MVs have one installed. A good tender is a lot cheaper than replacing batteries every few years.
 

CallMeColt

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maybe cut some fuel line or similar and poke into the holes of the weld on tabs placed.... then run cord back thru them t help protect the cord... or smaller fuel line and slip over the rope and slide all that into each hole as you lace it down?
I brainstormed this exact idea. I had some other ideas as well with some rifle sling mounts and stuff. That cord is more robust than it seems, it will last a while & I'll make my mind up on something better when it gets close to giving up. :)
 

CallMeColt

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No matter which batteries you use, they will last alot longer if you install a 24 volt battery tender. I have two flooded batteries in my M37 that sat a lot more than got used. They lasted 10 years. I attribute that to the battery tender. All my MVs have one installed. A good tender is a lot cheaper than replacing batteries every few years.
I actually am going to put one of the military battery tenders on there that had a small solar panel. I got one locally & it has a slightly bigger solar panel than I wanted so I am going to a different one. I want to mount the panel on top of the air intake as it's up high & it can easily be bolted to it, then sealed up. Not to far from the batteries. It will be in my next update video.

I have on on my MEP-802A generator and it works great. Even sitting for a month, it cranks right up.
 

maa45069

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Another update video!

Had some issues with my truck locking into 2nd gear. Found some bad wires.

I go through how to troubleshoot the WTECIII on the FMTV & then my own issue.


I recently had my truck do the same thing after driving to a local carwash to spray it down. your videos have been very helpful. Some time has passed since you went through and electrical taped those exposed wires, have you had a return of the 18000 lb brick?
 

CallMeColt

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I recently had my truck do the same thing after driving to a local carwash to spray it down. your videos have been very helpful. Some time has passed since you went through and electrical taped those exposed wires, have you had a return of the 18000 lb brick?
I have not had the issue come up again to be honest, but, I know it will. It's just one of those things I'm ignoring. The wire harness should be rebuilt. It's just a real pain in the ass job.
 

CallMeColt

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I'm most of the way through my PTO winch install but ran into some snags. It's a pretty in-depth project, so I will probably make a new thread for it once I'm done. Found out a lot of good information.

Got all the need parts on order, including the M1919A4, to mount it up on the installed M66. Can't wait!

Really hoping that by summer the PTO, winch, turret, and A/C will all be installed and tweaked with all the kinks worked out. So far, it's been fighting me quite a bit but it is coming along.
 

maa45069

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I have not had the issue come up again to be honest, but, I know it will. It's just one of those things I'm ignoring. The wire harness should be rebuilt. It's just a real pain in the ass job.
I was thinking about your electrical tape idea and how it worked temporarily i was wondering if heat shrink tubing along the entire harness for each wire would work well with plastidip. If the wires themselves weren't brittle. Of course rebuilding or replacing would be best.
 

CallMeColt

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I was thinking about your electrical tape idea and how it worked temporarily i was wondering if heat shrink tubing along the entire harness for each wire would work well with plastidip. If the wires themselves weren't brittle. Of course rebuilding or replacing would be best.
I don't know how you would get heat shrink on there. The connectors are big. Plastidip will be hard to properly apply without possibly sealing multiple wires together. Both you would need to remove the harness to really apply those solutions and that is the hardest part or replacing/rebuilding it to be honest. If you want to do something temporary, if you by chance can find where the water is getting in and causing the issue, seal with with tape the best you can and hope for the best since it can be done quickly and without removing much of anything.
 
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