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Member Broke Down, SC

doghead

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The engine should be pipe thread. Then there is an adapter, then the hose. Can you just get a pipe thread to hose barb adapter and splice into your line up in the rubber area? Use a hose barb to hose barb to do the rubber hose splice.

Or a complete universal oil cooler kit could get you going again

Or, you could just use 2 pipe plugs and not run the oil cooler for the trip home.

Is cutting the rubber line at the hole, and just using a hose barb-hose barb connector out of the question?
 
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MitchG

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Columbia S.C.
Hey Phil is it the rubber part of the line leaking? If so you could always go to one of the parts stores and get a small section of steel brake line and some clamps. Cut out the bad section and use a couple clamps on each side of the rubber hose If it's a small enough piece that you can leave the flares on each end its even better.
 

Stonepicker1

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I bought some duct tape and hose clamps. I think i still have the plugs that came with the engine. Im going to try the duct tape trick. I think i have the block plugs that came with the engine in the engine can.

? Could there be to much crankcase pressure. This is why my valve cover gasket started leaking.
I loosen the oil fill cap just in case.
 

ranchhopper

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south elgin illinois
A few of the 6.5s I bought had F7 codes on them after being rebuilt reasons listed was excessive blowby the engine just needs to be run in after everything seats and the rings are seated crankcase pressure is a non issue.
 
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Stonepicker1

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Oil leak fixed. But now bigger problems..... Batteries not charging. No gen 1 or 2 lights on dash. Both batteries are at 7 volts. I'm stopped at the Hess station at exit 85, south on 95.

Any info on what to check before truck shots down?
 

doghead

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Check your bottom most fuse.

Did you connect an engine to frame or body ground when you changed engines? do you have jumper-cables with you?
 
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Stonepicker1

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Coconut Creek, Florida
Looks like my son and i will be spending the night in my truck.
Truck is still running. Why i don't know. I thought the hmmwv ip had to have 24 volts to stay open.
I only have 14 volts(back battery) front is dead.
If my truck is still running at daybreak, i will get a new battery down the road so my trailer brakes work.
Gen 1 was missing the ground strap. I put one on but looks like the alt is bad.
 
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