New LMTV owner

[FarmingSmallKubota]

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Looks good and it almost appears to be "factory".

"factory" is the idea

 

[WWinAK]

So it is official. i now have an Ohio Title and overpriced Commercial license plates, but the truck is legal

We’re you able to use the original serial number? I have yet to take up the fight again here myself but this week, that on the list to get done. The DMV has told me on more than one occasion there needs to be a different number.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

We’re you able to use the original serial number? I have yet to take up the fight again here myself but this week, that on the list to get done. The DMV has told me on more than one occasion there needs to be a different number.

Yes i used the original serial number

 

[Mullaney]

We’re you able to use the original serial number? I have yet to take up the fight again here myself but this week, that on the list to get done. The DMV has told me on more than one occasion there needs to be a different number.

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Politely MAKE THEM DO THEIR JOB and do not let them change your VIN. You have to have that VIN for insurance purposes. Those numbers need to match

 

[INFChief]

We’re you able to use the original serial number? I have yet to take up the fight again here myself but this week, that on the list to get done. The DMV has told me on more than one occasion there needs to be a different number.

In NYS, they simply added zeroes to my Serial # to be able to fill the data requirement.

I agree with Mullaney - those #’s need to match. In my case, though, I will rely on the data plates still mounted to the truck and all of the original paperwork that came with it to explain why DMV added digits.

 

[mccullek]

not to much to report. I cant work on anything else until i have all the air/hydraulic leaks fixed. I ordered the rebuild kit for the air/hydraulic pump, the manifold i thought i had fixed is leaking like crazy so i set out on a rabbit hole to get the right parts to rebuild all of the valves. MME has a 78 dollar kit for just 1 valve and that was not going to work. TM says sk10-4 rebuild kit which is a Parker kit, 201 business days to get one as none exist in the country. found a tech manual on Parkers website that gave me the oring sizes, so went to the Parker store got the orings for all 4 valves $7.75 but no back-up rings. Parker will not sell them separate only in the kit but i got the part numbers so orings.com i think i have what i need coming. crossing my fingers i have all the parts, and a spare set for about $40 total.

Does anyone know the size of the O-rings and the backup rings, as I want to rebuild all 4 of my valves? The kit is like $98.00 for one valve, so $400 to rebuild all 4. I just can't see paying that for some o-rings. There has to be a way to figure out the sizes and order them directly as farming suggests here. I tried both my SAE and Metric O-ring kit, but the O-rings are too thick. They don't leave enough room to get the backup rings on properly. Anyone that knows the sizes, or even where I can get a reasonably priced kit, please let me know.

 

[INFChief]

Does anyone know the size of the O-rings and the backup rings, as I want to rebuild all 4 of my valves? The kit is like $98.00 for one valve, so $400 to rebuild all 4. I just can't see paying that for some o-rings. There has to be a way to figure out the sizes and order them directly as farming suggests here. I tried both my SAE and Metric O-ring kit, but the O-rings are too thick. They don't leave enough room to get the backup rings on properly. Anyone that knows the sizes, or even where I can get a reasonably priced kit, please let me know.

Which part item #’s?

 

[mccullek]

I need the O-rings and backup rings for the knobs on the manifold. There is a kit SK10-4, but it does not give the size of the o-rings. It only gives you a kit number that is $100 per valve, and I need to rebuild all 4, so I was hoping someone might know the sizes of them.

A previous post describes how FarmKubota researched the sizes and ordered the stuff for all 4 for around $40, but he doesn't post the sizes. I messaged him directly, but no reply yet. Hoping he is still around and has these o-ring sizes. I just can't see why 3 o-rings and 6 backup rings should cost $100. I know people are in business to make money, but $400 for a few O-rings is not in my budget. See kit 14 & 16, as that is what I'm trying to match.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Here are the Oring part numbers, the backer rings ended up being to thick, but the old ones should be ok.

 

[mccullek]

Here are the Oring part numbers, the backer rings ended up being to thick, but the old ones should be ok.
View attachment 872365

Thanks for posting this. I was able to find the PDF with these same numbers by digging a bit more, and I already placed an order from Allegheny York. A total of $65.00 including the backup rings. I guessed at those a bit, and they were the most expensive part. Without the backup rings, it was probably around $10 for the o-rings for all 4 valves. And they want $100 at the usual sites for one valve kit. I understand people need to make money, but a 4,000 percent markup is ridiculous.

I would have purchased a kit from the usual suppliers were it a reasonable price, as this took some work to put it all together. They could make more money with some reasonable pricing in my opinion. I get it when they have rare parts that are in demand, but o-rings? Geez, $100 is robbery for 4 o-rings that I bought for less than $1 each in most cases.

 

[Third From Texas]

And they want $100 at the usual sites for one valve kit.

But...but....

<insert BS here>

a) supply and demand
b) junkyard rental property cost
c) labor to remove

*none of which apply to the vast majority of crap the surplus scalpers flip

You're on the right track... Find the item/size you need on the civilian market. Pay pennies for the item.

And if you want to become a "Military Surplus vendor", just add a point of the compass to the word "military", toss it in a Ziploc baggy, mark the item up 10,000x what you paid for it and....

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ profit!

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Tiny bit of progress tonight. Its been hot and I have been working on Generators too much lately, but i was able to wire up the new license plate lights, put a packard connector on and hooked up to the extra lead on the driver side taillight and works fine. final paint and bolted down. something silly but as i was digging through all the parts I had been collecting and putting them away found the cover for the door handle latch. Still no latch on the passenger side, but one day will get it done. If it cools down i will take the hydraulic pump apart again as i have a new oring for the out side cylinder housing, but its just too hot and humid with biting flies right now. Told the Wife this may lead to whole new shop with air conditioning or at least one of those 6 foot tall fans to cool off and keep the flies away.

 

[Mullaney]

Tiny bit of progress tonight. Its been hot and I have been working on Generators too much lately, but i was able to wire up the new license plate lights, put a packard connector on and hooked up to the extra lead on the driver side taillight and works fine. final paint and bolted down. something silly but as i was digging through all the parts I had been collecting and putting them away found the cover for the door handle latch. Still no latch on the passenger side, but one day will get it done. If it cools down i will take the hydraulic pump apart again as i have a new oring for the out side cylinder housing, but its just too hot and humid with biting flies right now. Told the Wife this may lead to whole new shop with air conditioning or at least one of those 6 foot tall fans to cool off and keep the flies away.

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And supposedly it is cooler in Ohio than North Carolina - and it is miserable sticky and muggy and hot here too! Yes sir, right now it is the wrong time of the year for truck projects around here. At night or just before and just after a rain storm is about the only chance to work outside...

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Pouring down rain today. So i spent some time going through the mk28 basic issue kit i bought for things i am putting on the LMTV. tools, locks, wheel chocks, document bag installed on my door. lots of stuff in that box that will not go on the lmtv and i have no idea what it is or used for.

 

[12Paths]

Awesome! I’m picking my mtv up soon and also live in Ohio. Any tips on the title work? It is in my business name. My bmv gave me temp commercial vehicle tags.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

I took the title option from Gov planet so it was a Florida title, but not really sure it matters. You will need to have an inspection done, and hopefully get the right person at the BMV. Because of weight it will have to have commercial plates

 

[mccullek]

I took the title option from Gov planet so it was a Florida title, but not really sure it matters. You will need to have an inspection done, and hopefully get the right person at the BMV. Because of weight it will have to have commercial plates

Last weekend, I used the $5 O-rings we cross referenced and I rebuilt my manifold valves. That got the hand pump to easily raise and lower the cab and spare tire.

This weekend I used one of the rebuild kits on the Hydraulic pump and rebuilt that as well. As with most everyone that has done this, the small reddish seal on the piston was in multiple pieces, so it was not allowing any pressure to build. Once I changed out that seal and the other O-rings and put it back together, I can now raise and lower the cab and spare tire without using the hand pump.

I did have to bleed the air out a couple of times before it worked properly, but it's not that difficult of a job as long as you use a c-clamp to hold the pump together when removing the 4 screws. That spring has some pressure on it, so be sure you watch some of the YouTube videos where they go over how to use a clamp to keep that from flying apart when you remove the screws, as that worked like a champ for me.

Don't pay $100 for one of the O-ring kits to rebuild a single valve on the manifold. Use the numbers posted above in this thread and order them from Allegheny York for less than $5 for all of them. You can reuse the original backup rings if they are still in place. Just change out the O-rings.

 

[12Paths]

Great info thanks!

 

[mccullek]

Great info thanks!

As an afterthought here, you could probably email someone at Parker and find out the correct sizes of the backup rings as well if you needed those. Their purpose is to keep the high pressures from distorting the o-rings into a position where they might fail, so the backup rings don't really wear out I don't think. If they are still in place, you should not need new ones. I just reused those and only replaced the O-rings and that has worked well for me.

If anyone does need those backup rings though, contact Parker and see if someone could help you with them. They would be the ones that come with the rebuild kit. I can't remember that rebuild kit number, but you can look it up in the TM manual.

If you were to find the correct sizes, maybe post those back here for future reference. No one should have to pay $400 for $20 worth of O-rings and backup rings.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Last weekend, I used the $5 O-rings we cross referenced and I rebuilt my manifold valves. That got the hand pump to easily raise and lower the cab and spare tire.

This weekend I used one of the rebuild kits on the Hydraulic pump and rebuilt that as well. As with most everyone that has done this, the small reddish seal on the piston was in multiple pieces, so it was not allowing any pressure to build. Once I changed out that seal and the other O-rings and put it back together, I can now raise and lower the cab and spare tire without using the hand pump.

I did have to bleed the air out a couple of times before it worked properly, but it's not that difficult of a job as long as you use a c-clamp to hold the pump together when removing the 4 screws. That spring has some pressure on it, so be sure you watch some of the YouTube videos where they go over how to use a clamp to keep that from flying apart when you remove the screws, as that worked like a champ for me.

Don't pay $100 for one of the O-ring kits to rebuild a single valve on the manifold. Use the numbers posted above in this thread and order them from Allegheny York for less than $5 for all of them. You can reuse the original backup rings if they are still in place. Just change out the O-rings.

glad it worked for you. I did total rebuild on the hydraulic pump and still can not get it to work. Kicker is it worked before i took it apart. How are you bleeding the air out?