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New M-1083 owner. So, here we go!!

coachgeo

Well-known member
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Location
North of Cincy OH
So how did I prime my fuel filters after changing them and discovering my primer bulb doesn't work??

(665) FMTV LMTV MTV fuel prime issue and sending unit replacement. - YouTube
appreciate the info. Neat trick.

IMHO add a 12v inline; petrol type is fine, aux fuel pump as close to the tank as you can and put it on a switch. This can be used to prime and can be used to get you by if you get an air leak on a trip. In that case you just leave it on.

Your hand primer not working is a sign it leaks air. You will need to replace it cause it will leak air into your fuel when driving and sitting.
 
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Ronmar

Well-known member
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Port angeles wa
Your hand primer not working is a sign it leaks air. You will need to replace it cause it will leak air into your fuel when driving and sitting.
Not necessarilly. The issue is probably the flapper type bypass valve up above where the filter screws in is not sealing. That will keep the primer from lifting fuel, and without a strainer in the tank it is exposed to anything the pickup tube sucks up… found a bug leg or camel hair was keeping mine from sealing when I got the truck. or it could be an air leak on the line from the tank. It is easy enough to test…
 

RRaulston

Well-known member
227
550
93
Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
Well yesterday I changed a tire and fixed the kneeling control valve. The valve had a little bit of a learning curve, which I live for. I put the video in another thread. The tire was a different story. My first one. These things are heavy, but more important is they are unwieldy!! 36" breaker bar wouldn't cut it. I had to use my 3/4" gun and that still took a minute. No idea what I torqued them too, but I thumped 'em good. Will work on getting a torque wrench soon. Its parked anyways for now as I am sorting the driveshafts. There is noticeable movement when I push on them from below, so they are on top of the list.
 

RRaulston

Well-known member
227
550
93
Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
One more thing. The previous owner indicated he never changed the oil. Based on the recorded mileage of the guy he bought it from to when I bought it, it had only been driven less than 2500 miles from what I can tell. :oops:I was hesitant at first, but all signs pointed to it was OK. Just to verify, I took an oil sample. Quite pleased with the results...
 

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GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,038
5,225
113
Location
Portland, OR
Is this an alternative for a replacement of my 100AMP unit?? Thanks


C.E. Niehoff N1224-1 Alternator
That's the 260 unit. It's an "alternative" in the sense that is the alt they upgraded to with the A1R and LTAS trucks, but it's not a simple bolt-on. I don't believe it fits the 100a bracketry, and I know for SURE they changed the shock tower mount dramatically to accommodate the alternator but they also did the coil-over front shocks at the same time which use larger hardware on both ends so the amount of stuff that has to change mechanically for it to fit is actually pretty astounding. Not to mention all the wiring was upgraded in size to handle the additional 160a output capacity. I believe the LBCD is the same at least.

There's enough changes required to "upgrade" that I haven't seen it actually done. Even the military still put's 100a alts on the trucks that still use them if a replacement is needed.
 

mrjeffa

Member
23
28
13
Location
Texas
Thanks for the info. Alternator is still working just though will I was doing all the changes see if there was a better option. Looks like not a good idea. I am just going to put new batteries in. Thanks Ronmar for the response. So is putting to d8 batteries in is ok, our is there a better option now?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
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7,480
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Location
Port angeles wa
At ~225AH, the 8Ds are only a slightly smaller bank than the 240AH that the four 6T batts create. still way too much for the dual volt alt to support properly.

Around 100AH is a much better match for the alternator, So a pair of the 6Ts(120AH, NOT AGM), a pair of 31’s at 100AH, a pair of group 27’s at just under 100AH, or 4 group 24’s at around 120AH. A pair of group 24s or 27’s in AGM might work well also…

Cat specced a pair if group 31s…
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
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7,480
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Location
Port angeles wa
I just broke down the reasoning for the battery bank sizing in this discussion post #11

 

RRaulston

Well-known member
227
550
93
Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
I just broke down the reasoning for the battery bank sizing in this discussion post #11

after everything ive learned from you, I will be getting 2 Group 31s after I do my 3 drivelines.
 

RRaulston

Well-known member
227
550
93
Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
As I was inspecting wires and getting ready to replace a bunch of cracked plastic wire protective sleave, I noticed this plug un-plugged. Any idea what it is?? Thanks! 20221126_094821.jpg20221126_094818.jpg
 

RRaulston

Well-known member
227
550
93
Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
Well, I bought a part. Thought it was for my truck then I do a deep dive and it's for an MRAP? whatever that is... Might can use the brake pads.... Dunno, sure looks close... Hmmm.. 50 bucks is no huge loss...
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68514153-3cfa-473b-9d59-0f3b9402faa1.jpg
681394a0-37a0-4af1-b5bf-4a0f8d5bd6df.jpg
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,038
5,225
113
Location
Portland, OR
MRAP = "Mine Resistant Ambush Protected" and refers to a classification of vehicles for which there are three general categories (I, II, and III) based on weight, size, and number of axles and currently there are over 50 variants.

So it fits *something* in the MRAP world presumably with a Meritor axles or independent suspension - what that is an if it's similar to the FMTV 7.5 ton Meritor solid axle brake equipment is anyone's guess.
 
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