New to me Deuce with matching trailer - wrenching post

[banditt1979]

I managed to get a decent weld on the pin although the leg is a little crooked.

Big shout out to gimpyrobb for the parts! Wheel cylinder with pins and a few other items allowed me to get the brakes redone and hub back on. Thank you again sir!

Also thank you to everyone with your tips and suggestions. You all make this site one of the best I've ever had the honor of being a member to.

Now back to bleeding.....

 

[Aussie Bloke]

G'day everyone,....

Now back to bleeding.....

Yeah, working on these trucks will do that to ya,....





Aussie.

 

[banditt1979]

I've noticed that my air pressure gauge stops between 90 and 120psi. Is that a normal running pressure?

 

[cattlerepairman]

I've noticed that my air pressure gauge stops between 90 and 120psi. Is that a normal running pressure?

Yes; so does mine.

 

[banditt1979]

I've started trouble shooting the oil and temp gauges. The oil pressure comes up a little after starting and running but the temp gauge doesnt move at all, even letting the truck run for 45 minutes and physically feeling the manifold get hot. If I ground the wire at the sending unit the temp gauge goes full hot. If I ground the wire for the oil gauge it just barely moves off zero similar to when it is connected to the sending unit. Guess I should try grounding the sending wire at the oil pressure gauge and go from there? But not sure whats up with the temp gauge. Been through 3 sending units in total so far. Even checked the old ones resistance buy running hot water over it and watching the ohms value change.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Oil pressure sending unit/gauge need to be a matched pair. There are two max values out there (60 psi and 120 psi if memory serves, but I might be wrong). Both items need to be the same.

I would think from your description that the water temp gauge is bad if the sending unit reacts to temp changes but the gauge does not show it. Easy to test with replacement gauge. Perhaps also measure continuity of the wire between sending unit and gauge to ensure it is not broken/grounded out.

 

[bprzyw]

I just searched to see if others have had trouble with Real Custom Trucks and wish I'd searched here before ordering. You can't get in touch with them by phone or email. Fortunately my order was small ($25ish) but I ordered 2 small parts I really needed right away, waited 2 weeks with no responses back on where it was, then asked them to cancel and ordered from Big Mike's. I got Big Mike's order at the house 3 days later and had the parts installed and moved on to the next project and then all of a sudden 1 of the two parts arrived from RCT -- which I no longer need. I sent another email asking to cancel the balance and refund shipping but I'm sure it will get ignored like the previous attempts to contact them.

Let me be clear the reason for my post: DO NOT BUY FROM REAL CUSTOM TRUCKS. Use a supporting vendor here. I've since bought several hundred dollars worth of stuff from Big Mikes!

Well, I placed an order with them July 13 2022. Heard nothing, called, emailed nothing. Then last week my order showed up.

 

[banditt1979]

Oil pressure sending unit/gauge need to be a matched pair. There are two max values out there (60 psi and 120 psi if memory serves, but I might be wrong). Both items need to be the same.

I would think from your description that the water temp gauge is bad if the sending unit reacts to temp changes but the gauge does not show it. Easy to test with replacement gauge. Perhaps also measure continuity of the wire between sending unit and gauge to ensure it is not broken/grounded out.

If I ground the wire at the sending unit the water temp gauge goes from zero to full hot. Thats the weird part because it doesn't move at all when its connected and warmed up. When I ground the wire at the sending unit for the oil pressure sensor, the oil pressure gauge only moves a little. And it move up a little more as pressure builds I'm going to pull the cluster in a few and see if there are any wires missing or broken, maybe test the gauges at each gauge as well.

 

[banditt1979]

Here's what I found

Oil pressure gauge: when I ground the gauge AT the gauge, it goes to full pressure. When I ground the wire at the sensor, it moves off zero maybe 1/8 inch. Guessing the wire has some resistance in it somewhere. I'll run a jumper this weekend to verify.

Temp gauge: when grounded at the gauge and at the sensor it goes to full temp so I have to assume the wiring is good there. Checking the sensor resistance its around 1.86k ohm hot. I checked the other sensor I had and it was like 6k ohm cold. I don't understand why the gauge isn't working if the wire and sensor appear to be good. I may swap out the sensor again as I received a second sensor when I thought the first one I ordered was bad.

Any thoughts on this? I've not had this kind of issue with my hot rods; its either the gauge, the sensor, or the wire. What is the fourth element???

 

[cattlerepairman]

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TM9-2320-361-20.pdf

Page 2-122
Troubleshooting 30. ENGINE TEMPERATURE GAGE INOPERATIVE



Test 1. Test coolant temperature gage operation.
Step 1. Disconnect lead 33 from coolant temperature sending unit.
Step 2. Turn accessory/ignition switch to ON position.
Step 3. Coolant temperature gage should read minimum temperature.
Step 4. Touch contact end of lead 33 to frame ground. Coolant temperature gage should read
maximum temperature.
Step 5. If coolant temperature gage operates properly go to test 3 and check sending unit.
Step 6. If coolant temperature gage does not operate properly, go to test 2.
Test 2. Test for battery voltage into temperature gage, go to malfunction 29, test 2.
Test 3. Test temperature sending unit.
Step 1. Allow coolant to cool.
Step 2. Set multimeter to RX1 scale.
Step 3. Start engine (TM 9-2320-361-10).
Step 4. Connect multimeter negative lead to engine ground and positive lead to sending unit.
Multimeter reading should decrease as engine coolant temperature increases.
a. If resistance does not show any decrease as temperature increases, replace temperature
sending unit (para. 4-24).
b. If resistance does show a decrease as temperature increases, go to test 4.
Test 4. Check continuity of lead 33.
Step 1. Disconnect lead 33 from temperature gage.
Step 2. Set multimeter to RX1 scale.
Step 3. Touch negative lead of multimeter to contact end of lead 33 at sending unit.
Step 4. Touch positive lead of multimeter to other end of lead 33.
a. If continuity is not present, replace or repair lead 33 (para. 4-51).
b. If continuity is present, replace temperature gage (para. 4-12)

 

[cattlerepairman]

page 2-126


TM 9-2320-361-20
Table 2-4. Electrical Troubleshooting (Contd).
MALFUNCTION
TEST OR INSPECTION
CORRECTIVE ACTION
32. OIL PRESSURE GAGE INOPERATIVE
NOTE
If STE/ICE is available, perform NG31 - gage test (chapter 2,
section VII).
Test 1. Test oil pressure gage operation.
Step 1. Disconnect lead 36 at oil pressure sending unit.
Step 2. Turn accessory/ignition switch to ON position.
Step 3. Oil pressure gage should show MINIMUM pressure.
Step 4. Touch contact end of lead 36 to frame ground. Oil pressure gage should show MAXIMUM
pressure.
a. If oil pressure gage operates properly, go to test 3.
b. If oil pressure gage does not operate properly, go to test 2.
Test 2. Test battery voltage to oil pressure gage, go to malfunction 29, test 2.
Test 3. Test oil pressure sending unit.
Step 1. Set multimeter to RX1 scale.
Step 2. Connect negative lead to frame ground on engine.
Step 3. Touch positive lead to contact of oil pressure sending unit. Resistance should measure less
than 1 ohm with engine off (no oil pressure).
Step 4. If resistance is 1 ohm or more, replace oil pressure sending unit (para. 4-23).
Step 5. If resistance is less than 1 ohm, continue with step 6.
Step 6. Remove oil pressure sending unit (para. 4-23).
Step 7. Install mechanical gage.
Step 8. Start engine and check oil pressure on gage.
a. If oil pressure is 10 psi or above at idle, replace oil pressure sending unit (para. 4-23).
b. If oil pressure is less than 10 psi at idle, notify your supervisor.
Test 4. Test continuity of lead 36.
Step 1. Disconnect lead 36 from oil pressure gage (warm engine).
Step 2. Set multimeter to RX1 scale.
Step 3. Touch positive lead of multimeter to one end of lead 36 and negative lead of multimeter to
other end of lead 36.
a. If continuity is not present, replace or repair lead 36 (para. 4-51).
b. If continuity is present, replace oil pressure gage (para

 

[banditt1979]

Thank you cattlerepairman, that is what I needed to confirm my thoughts on testing.

 

[banditt1979]

Continuity in the wiring is perfect, no resistance. I took the oil pressure gauge out, cleaned the metal contacts, no change. I checked to make sure the temp sending unit was changing its resistance as it warmed up, and it was. So while it was running I tapped on the temp gauge and it went to full hot and stayed there. When I cut the power it returned to zero, turn power back on and no movement. Tapped it again and went full hot again, so it looks like the gauge itself is bad even though it was acting normal when grounding it. Still need to check if I have the right oil pressure sending unit, if so I'll replace the oil gauge as well. Can you tell the difference between the 60 and 120psi sending units without removing it?

 

[Mullaney]

Continuity in the wiring is perfect, no resistance. I took the oil pressure gauge out, cleaned the metal contacts, no change. I checked to make sure the temp sending unit was changing its resistance as it warmed up, and it was. So while it was running I tapped on the temp gauge and it went to full hot and stayed there. When I cut the power it returned to zero, turn power back on and no movement. Tapped it again and went full hot again, so it looks like the gauge itself is bad even though it was acting normal when grounding it. Still need to check if I have the right oil pressure sending unit, if so I'll replace the oil gauge as well. Can you tell the difference between the 60 and 120psi sending units without removing it?

.
What about a known good ground? The instrument panel in a Deuce is held in place with four Zeus Fasteners in the corners. Sometimes the gauges loose ground and "go wonky". If you have a long piece of 14 gauge wire and some vice grips - clip it to the negative post on a battery, then attach the other end to your temp gauge. Does that change anything? If so, spend a little time making a ground loom for all the gauges and then a wire to a known good ground inside the truck.

Sometimes, a little cleaning and multiple times of turning the Zeus fasteners and maybe even some Anti-Oxidation paste on those fasteners will restore your ground. Leave lots of slack on the ground if you make one. Coil a couple of feet of wire around a pencil or something similar to make it obviously different. Maybe even green (= ground) as the wire color...

 

[cattlerepairman]

. Can you tell the difference between the 60 and 120psi sending units without removing it?

It should be written on the sending unit. Not sure how clearly visible it is. I checked on the new ones and there seems to be merely a sticker on the side: https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/oilprseun1201.html

The NSN number is also different.

 

[banditt1979]

Well I saw some writing on a label on the oil sender and tried to wipe off the dirt but ended up wiping off the writing lol. I decided to order new gauges after checking and verifying a good ground. Also got the pyro installed, just need to fabricate a gauge mount. Unfortunately the old lady got sick earlier this week so had to tend to the family for a few days. Hope to get some things done tomorrow if it isn't raining.

 

[cattlerepairman]

@banditt1979 I tried to "clean" the MULTIFUEL data plate on the engine. That worked really well, too! The black plate turned shiny silver with randomly stencilled numbers. Great.

 

[banditt1979]

Got the new temp and oil pressure gauges installed with mixed results lol

The temp gauge got up to 140 degrees after about 20 minutes of running, which is good but probably means I need a new thermostat. I would expect it to get hotter than that. Oil pressure went up to about 30 psi but after warming up went down to around 10psi at idle. Now I'm wondering if the sending unit is either the wrong one or worn out. Since I wiped off the specs on the label I can't tell now. I'll probably just order a new sending unit just to be on the safe side.

Pyro stayed at about 150 degrees the whole time. Not sure what that is supposed to run at idle and around 1500rpm for a few minutes. Please share your experiences.

 

[DaneGer21]

View attachment 878944

Got the new temp and oil pressure gauges installed with mixed results lol

The temp gauge got up to 140 degrees after about 20 minutes of running, which is good but probably means I need a new thermostat. I would expect it to get hotter than that. Oil pressure went up to about 30 psi but after warming up went down to around 10psi at idle. Now I'm wondering if the sending unit is either the wrong one or worn out. Since I wiped off the specs on the label I can't tell now. I'll probably just order a new sending unit just to be on the safe side.

Pyro stayed at about 150 degrees the whole time. Not sure what that is supposed to run at idle and around 1500rpm for a few minutes. Please share your experiences.

All I can point out is that my truck usually idles around 270* when first started. When I come home after a drive it’s usually 340* coming down the driveway at a few MPH’s. I then let idle to under 300* to cool down before I shut down. I run a custom mix of wmo and I know for sure it raises egt’s more than diesel alone.

 

[ToddJK]

As far as engine temp goes, that's about right. The multi-fuel engines run fairly cool but will warm up as they are driven. Mine will cool down to about 150 or so when idling, the warmest I ever seen it was 160, 180-190 when driving.

As for oil pressure, that could be a few things. Could be a dirty sending unit, sending unit is bad, or your truck just appears to have lower oil pressure. Another thing that I discovered, engine blow-by also affects oil pressure. Make no mistake, that engine is making some oil pressure, especially top end pressure. You'll know the first time you don't have the oil filter on correctly, it comes spraying out of there. I have noticed different pressures with different oils as well. The truck tends to have lower pressure when hot with SAE 30 and higher pressures when hot with 15w-40. Only about 10-15 psi difference, but it seems consistent from my notes and this is only during idle, higher rpm cause constant fluctuations. Having fresh oil filters also affect oil pressure.

One thing you can do is attach a ground wire to the cluster gauge and bolt it in the dash. This will insure proper ground of all the gauges. As long as that oil pressure gauge shows something, you're good. The min it drops dead, especially while driving, that's when I'd be concerned, at that point you need to verify there's pressure or you risk destroying the engine because the oil pump went out or something got clogg/blocked, or loss of oil.

One last thing, I wouldn't get too bent out of shape if each gauge isn't reading 100% or seems accurate. Air should be accurate as well as temp within reason, same for the speedo, but a common expression heard over the years about MV gauges, only thing that lies more is a politician.