What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

[Guruman]

Started stripping the cab... out with the old seats, gunners platform. a bunch of radio wiring, and a weird aluminum plate bolted t the floor behind the passenger seat.

Scraped off the old floor covering. man whatever the green stuff they painted the floors with, is some good stuff. Looks like it's been coated a couple or more times, but only the green goo stuck.

I stripped the back wall, and recovered the rear side panels and the rear wall in vinyl to match the new door covering.

I'll be spraying in some Al's sound and heat shield this week, and once it's cured, I'll be hitting it with more stick on asphalt sound deadener sheets, and some rock wool insulation in the cavities.

hoping to get this cab sorted before the cold sits in.

 

[Guruman]

Some cab upgrade pics. Used a cheap undercoating gun to spray the sound deadener. And some silicon plugs from my powder coating bin to save the threaded holes.

Much more to do yet... Looking forward to some peace and quiet in the cab.

 

[fuzzytoaster]

I saved a M1089 from a future of neglect yesterday. One of my contacts called me to appraise a non-running military vehicle and expected a M35A2 or something older. A deal was struck and she was running in about 20 minutes (it's all about knowing which screw to turn). CTIS aired up the flats and the hydraulics tightened everything up for the drive. Besides two minor electrical issues related to the 3 way switch she is a solid truck. Most of the BII is in the bins too. I see some hoses that need to be replaced and two tires have major flat spots. The few things she needs are minor. I don't understand why someone would buy equipment then let it rot.

 

[DieselAddict]

I blew out a crap-ton of leaves and acorn from the back and around all the cracks and crevices yesterday. Does that count?

 

[Guruman]

Made some progress on the interior remodel this week.

 

[johnz]

Made some progress on the interior remodel this week.

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That's the nicest interior that I've seen in any of these trucks! Understand that by posting them, you're exposing yourself to a plethora of stupid questions... Mostly by me..
Thanks for posting!

 

[Guruman]

That's the nicest interior that I've seen in any of these trucks! Understand that by posting them, you're exposing yourself to a plethora of stupid questions... Mostly by me..
Thanks for posting!

fire at will...

 

[coachgeo]

fire at will...

why??? what did Will do??

ar ar ar ar

 

[johnz]

That's the nicest interior that I've seen in any of these trucks! Understand that by posting them, you're exposing yourself to a plethora of stupid questions... Mostly by me..
Thanks for posting!

Went back in your thread to learn more about the process, and the materials used, which may prevent many of the aforementioned stupid questions, but I would like to hear/read about the results from the soundproofing. Again, nice work!

 

[Guruman]

Went back in your thread to learn more about the process, and the materials used, which may prevent many of the aforementioned stupid questions, but I would like to hear/read about the results from the soundproofing. Again, nice work!

So far the soundproofing has made a tremendous difference, conversation is possible even at highway speeds in the cab. but I'm not done with it yet. I still get some low drone from the engine passing through the hump.

I intend to place another layer of thick rubber on it, as well as a custom console to help put some more absorbent materials in the inside. Plus, I'll be spraying my remaining heat and sound shield paint on the underside, and if I have enough, the entire exterior of the back wall (which will then get painted over with a color coat). I also have dynamat foil backed foam to line the underside of the engine tunnel after it gets the coating.

I have a SPL meter somewhere. I've been on the lookout for it. Once I find it, I'll post up some actual dB levels.

I also have yet to do anything much with the ceiling, but I'm thinking of lining the ceiling with some furring strips and hardwood flooring boards. I am a bit concerned that the wood will be too sound reflective, so if I find something better (like maybe the neoprene foam used on boat decks that looks like wood), I might switch.

Then the transition areas between the walls and ceiling will get a carpet covered panel, and will serve as the mounting location for various speakers, dome and map lighting with the wiring ran through the existing cutout openings. I'll probably put way too much thought into the lighting and go overboard. One thing my Tesla has taught me is that well placed accent and task lighting can make a huge difference. The days of needing a flashlight to rummage around in the cab are numbered.

 

[johnz]

So far the soundproofing has made a tremendous difference, conversation is possible even at highway speeds in the cab. but I'm not done with it yet. I still get some low drone from the engine passing through the hump.

I intend to place another layer of thick rubber on it, as well as a custom console to help put some more absorbent materials in the inside. Plus, I'll be spraying my remaining heat and sound shield paint on the underside, and if I have enough, the entire exterior of the back wall (which will then get painted over with a color coat). I also have dynamat foil backed foam to line the underside of the engine tunnel after it gets the coating.

I have a SPL meter somewhere. I've been on the lookout for it. Once I find it, I'll post up some actual dB levels.

I also have yet to do anything much with the ceiling, but I'm thinking of lining the ceiling with some furring strips and hardwood flooring boards. I am a bit concerned that the wood will be too sound reflective, so if I find something better (like maybe the neoprene foam used on boat decks that looks like wood), I might switch.

Then the transition areas between the walls and ceiling will get a carpet covered panel, and will serve as the mounting location for various speakers, dome and map lighting with the wiring ran through the existing cutout openings. I'll probably put way too much thought into the lighting and go overboard. One thing my Tesla has taught me is that well placed accent and task lighting can make a huge difference. The days of needing a flashlight to rummage around in the cab are numbered.

Although not free, thought is relatively inexpensive when compared to mistakes.
I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with in regards to interior lighting, and frankly, everything else that you do with your truck. Of course it's just my opinion, (and we can all agree that that's basically worthless) but these trucks are marvels of engineering and are worthy of some thought and effort to preserve them and bring them back to, and in fact beyond their original glory ...

 

[Guruman]

Although not free, thought is relatively inexpensive when compared to mistakes.
I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with in regards to interior lighting, and frankly, everything else that you do with your truck. Of course it's just my opinion, (and we can all agree that that's basically worthless) but these trucks are marvels of engineering and are worthy of some thought and effort to preserve them and bring them back to, and in fact beyond their original glory ...

Well... So far I'm thinking of three types of lighting.


Entry/exit:
Think a traditional dome light that switches on when you open the door (and via a manual switch when needed). Probably two or three overhead, with decent lumen output to basically flood everything with light and eliminate any shadows. Plus step lighting to aid with entry and exit. I'm thinking the step lighting will be placed in the bottom edge of the door, to light up the step area and immediate ground below and/or on the underside of the toolbox and cab right there.

Accent lighting:
This is where I liked my Tesla. Switches, handles, cup holders, footwells, all gently lit just enough to be able to find everything in the dark while underway, and placed so that there is no glare or internal reflection for the driver. I'll probably do a bunch of trial and error with this. I'll probably work up some temporary lights with magnets so I can play with different placements. I'll also throw compartment lighting in this category. My console will have lighting inside that comes on when the lid is opened, likewise any storage behind the seats (or built into the rear side panel cavities... hint... hint), overhead storage pockets, etc....

Task lighting:
Like map lights but more and better. Found some selectable white/red battery lights that I like, except for the battery part. I'm on the hunt for some aviation task/map lights one for the driver and one for the passenger with a tight focused red beam and an adjustable gooseneck for precise positioning. Plus some built into the console "catch-all" pocket for when you need to rummage around for whatever widget got tossed in there.

As a bonus for the exterior I have a complete MRAP lighting kit with visible and IR lightbars, plus two remote spotlights in both visible and IR,... someday.... I'll probably work the front facing bar into the yet-to-be-decided roof rack and the two side and the rear bar just bolted under the edge of the bed on all sides. Not sure how to handle the remote spotlights just yet. I have time to think on that... I'm hoping build the existing control box into the center console for easy access. Just all of those switches and joysticks right between the cupholders.... Kind of gives me the fizz.

 

[Third From Texas]

Not sure how to handle the remote spotlights just yet. I have time to think on that... I'm hoping build the existing control box into the center console for easy access.

I have a pair of IBIS TEK remotes. I plan on making a small "cage" for each and incorporating them into the roof rack. And like you, I'll have switches and a couple small joysticks in the center console to control them (mine will be on a master panel with a number of other features, thoough).

I've had step lighting for years (just never installed). I have the plunger switches and everything, just never got around to it.

 

[Guruman]

I have a pair of IBIS TEK remotes. I plan on making a small "cage" for each and incorporating them into the roof rack. And like you, I'll have switches and a couple small joysticks in the center console to control them (mine will be on a master panel with a number of other features, thoough).

I've had step lighting for years (just never installed). I have the plunger switches and everything, just never got around to it.

Procrastinators unite.... later....

Glad I'm not the only one with a pile of parts lying around.... I've had that MRAP light set for 5 years or more..... moved it to a new home 3 years ago... still in the planning phase...

 

[Third From Texas]

Procrastinators unite.... later....

Glad I'm not the only one with a pile of parts lying around.... I've had that MRAP light set for 5 years or more..... moved it to a new home 3 years ago... still in the planning phase...

LOL, yeah I have "camper project build stuff" in:

Living room
Dining room (floor to ceiling)
M1082 trailer (filled up to the roof)
As well as every square inch of the garage

I've been working on the house the past month and between family coming down I've made zero progress with the build.

 

[chucky]

I have a pair of IBIS TEK remotes. I plan on making a small "cage" for each and incorporating them into the roof rack. And like you, I'll have switches and a couple small joysticks in the center console to control them (mine will be on a master panel with a number of other features, thoough).

I've had step lighting for years (just never installed). I have the plunger switches and everything, just never got around to it.

How much do the ibis tek remote lights with joysticks cost roughly?

 

[TomTime]

How much do the ibis tek remote lights with joysticks cost roughly?

NEW MILITARY EYECON MRAP HID Lighting Kit for RG-33 PLUS and even more vehicles. | eBay

FOR SALE - NEW - EYECON MRAP 360 Degree Lighting Kit for MRAP RG-33 PLUS & HAGA PLUS CAT II Vehicles - YouTube. Complete dummy-proof, plug-and-play kit. We have a video on youtube. Video will open in a new window.

www.ebay.com

 

[Guruman]

NEW MILITARY EYECON MRAP HID Lighting Kit for RG-33 PLUS and even more vehicles. | eBay

FOR SALE - NEW - EYECON MRAP 360 Degree Lighting Kit for MRAP RG-33 PLUS & HAGA PLUS CAT II Vehicles - YouTube. Complete dummy-proof, plug-and-play kit. We have a video on youtube. Video will open in a new window.

www.ebay.com

and... that's why I pulled the trigger on one of those 5 years ago without even having a plan on how to use it. I paid $300 plus freight.

I knew that I'd never get another for that price.

But, dang. $1200 wow.

 

[Third From Texas]

How much do the ibis tek remote lights with joysticks cost roughly?

I think I paid $100 ea for the two lights.

I'll be making the panel, but I haven't decided on the type of light switches I'll be using in the cab. You really only need a couple on/off toggles and a couple joysticks. Little analog sticks are like $5.

 

[Guruman]

Step parts arrived... A quick mock-up says it might work.

It might even be possible to attach the front side of the step to the underside of the bumper, and the rear side to the toolbox, making it get out of it's own way when tilting the cab..... without grinding into the tire.

I don't like the top step as much... A) it covers the lock for the lid. B) it's not as wide as the lid, leaving some space on either side. C) it's kind of too tall, if it were just the grippy part it'd be much better.