What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

[MatthewWBailey]

The Amsoil grease I use is a calcium sulfonate complex rather than a lithium complex. The calcium sulfonate has a dropping point of 315 degrees vs the lithium complex of 260 degrees. It also has greater shear stability, better water resistance, and higher pressure protection. It's better in every way actually - the only way lithium is better is cost - it's half the price. But you can do all the wheel bearings with a single $12 tube of Amsoil so there's really zero reason to use the inferior lithium complex grease - well there's 6 reasons I guess. And all six of those won't satisfy you at McDonalds.

NLGI grade is just a measurement of thickness. The Amsoil waterproof grease is also NLGI #2.

I have an account so easily purchased. I need one of those sandwich packers too. The hoe needs regrease every 25-50 hours, 32 zerks, same with the track loader but only 20 on that. So I go thru a 5 gallon lithium grease bucket fast with the pressure pump.

 

[hike]

When packing our 4x4 vehicles we use this small pail from NAPA:



I didn't even think about a MilSpec, just grabbed another pail off the shelf.

Specs
"Aluminum Complex, NLGI #2 Grease, Water Resistant, Superior Rust & Corrosion Protection, Typical Drop Point 470 Deg F"

 

[aw113sgte]

When packing our 4x4 vehicles we use this small pail from NAPA:

View attachment 928147

I didn't even think about a MilSpec, just grabbed another pail off the shelf.

Specs
"Aluminum Complex, NLGI #2 Grease, Water Resistant, Superior Rust & Corrosion Protection, Typical Drop Point 470 Deg F"

I use red n tacky, it has a drop point of 540 and bigger numbers are better right? Nlgi #2. I'm no lubrication engineer but suspect as long as grit, water, salt etc are kept out and pretty much any brand of grease is in there, probably good to go for pretty much any use case.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I use red n tacky, it has a drop point of 540 and bigger numbers are better right? Nlgi #2. I'm no lubrication engineer but suspect as long as grit, water, salt etc are kept out and pretty much any brand of grease is in there, probably good to go for pretty much any use case.

Right - the Amsoil is >500 dropping point. The 315 number is just calcium sulfate greases in general which aren't necessarily synthetic. The high end synthetics are pretty dang high.

I like the Amsoil because it's specifically formulated for moist environments and these trucks are rated for wheel bearing submersion with their fording depth being up to the top of the tire. Not that it matters much if the seals are good. Just added insurance.

 

[MatthewWBailey]

I really went for the Gusto today. Added a new oil fill tube connection hose. I'm a problem solver!!

 

[hike]

The spindle and inner bearing race cleaned up pretty well, feels smooth and silky. There is one spot on the race I don't like the feel, though spinning our good inner bearing in it sounds right when compared to spinning in the other inner race.





The ungreased bearing sounds bad and feels rough after cleaning up. Nothing like the other that was greased.



New one should arrive next week; went ahead and ordered a new race as well—

 

[MatthewWBailey]

The spindle and inner bearing race cleaned up pretty well,

How'd you polish that?

 

[hike]

How'd you polish that?

Soaked in parts solvent; cleaned up with parts brush, scotch brite hand pad; finished with safety razor.

How can I do better? I went ahead and ordered a new race, if I am awaiting a bearing why not replace the race, too?

 

[MatthewWBailey]

Soaked in parts solvent; cleaned up with parts brush, scotch brite hand pad; finished with safety razor.

How can I do better? I went ahead and ordered a new race, if I am awaiting a bearing why not replace the race, too?

Looks good. I was just curious before I take mine apart. On the lathe, I've used various Emery paper grit to smooth out grains and gouges, 80,120,240 in succession. I'd imagine that'd work by hand but take awhile on an installed spindle.

 

[hike]

The part I haven't figured out: The ungreased bearing and CTIS taking on gear lube are unrelated? The MV gods saved my spindle?

 

[hike]

Looks good. I was just curious before I take mine apart. On the lathe, I've used various Emery paper grit to smooth out grains and gouges, 80,120,240 in succession. I'd imagine that'd work by hand but take awhile on an installed spindle.

I wanted to avoid removing material, focusing upon the deposits of what I think was burnt grease. Fortunately the bearing didn't score the spindle—

 

[GeneralDisorder]

The part I haven't figured out: The ungreased bearing and CTIS taking on gear lube are unrelated? The MV gods saved my spindle?

Correct. They are unrelated. I had one wheel (font right) that had gear oil in the CTIS stud. All my bearings had grease though. That's wild and I can only imagine the horror that would have followed if you hadn't found that till it seized.

For cleaning the spindle - red/brown scotch brite pad. Cut into strips so you can polish with it. Common problem to have. If it's really bad then a silicone carbide abrasive mesh is what I prefer for polishing shafts like that:

Amazon.com

 

[hike]

Correct. They are unrelated. I had one wheel (font right) that had gear oil in the CTIS stud. All my bearings had grease though. That's wild and I can only imagine the horror that would have followed if you hadn't found that till it seized.

For cleaning the spindle - red/brown scotch brite pad. Cut into strips so you can polish with it. Common problem to have. If it's really bad then a silicone carbide abrasive mesh is what I prefer for polishing shafts like that:

Amazon.com

I am still wondering how long it was like that. We have at least 4,000 miles since purchased. More since we did EcoHubs early and just recently received the reflashed ECM from you.

Thank you. I like those rolls too, will have to check the grit of what I have on hand.

Another point of confusion. TM 9-2320-365-20-3's instructions state to remove the bearing cups to inspect and reinstall if they pass visual inspection. My understanding is that TM is appropriate at the unit level (-20-). One step above the operator (-10-). The unit level would have a puller and a press to remove and install the cup (what I always called a race)?

 

[MatthewWBailey]

TM is appropriate at the unit level (-20-). One step above the operator (-10-).

I Learn something everyday on here. I've been wondering what the deal is with these TMs. Been driving me nuts. I'm too used to the singular, all-encompassing O&M manuals they we make in industrial settings.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

My understanding is that TM is appropriate at the unit level (-20-). One step above the operator (-10-). The unit level would have a puller and a press to remove and install the cup (what I always called a race)?

No. The required tools list for wheel bearing service does not include either one. There are brass drifts and punches in the general mechanics tool set. The only special tools required are the CTIS seal driver, the inner hub grease seal driver, and the 3-7/8" x 7" spindle nut socket.

In practice you never have the seal drivers and rarely have the spindle nut socket. The socket at least - hasn't been available in the military system for some time. You can order it. You'll get crickets. OTC needs to make some I guess and they haven't for whatever reasons. So your order just gets silently canceled or sits there unfulfilled. Gotta love that. Maintenance is expected to be done regardless so you do the best you can with what you are given.

You drift the races out. And drift the new one's in. If any of the inner or outer wheel bearing cups or cones fails visual inspection the procedure is to replace all of them. No press, press adapters, or pullers are provided or recommended by the TM. The technician is left up to their training and skills to figure it out.

-10 is operator. -20 is unit level or CSMS level maintenance. -30 is depot level maintenance.

 

[hike]

Well I planned to go to a friend's shop, but have a brass drift. Always good to see a friend though.

Here is this morning's work. Putting the left rear back together. Did something really dumb: flipped the wheel hub over while holding a new CTIS seal in my hand. Crushed it. There goes $50. I don't mind when my skills set catches me up, but I can't stand when I do something so stupid. At least the new seal will arrive about the time the cone bearing and cup do, too








Next the EcoHub to finish buttoning this side up, hopefully before the thunderstorms forecast this afternoon—

 

[Ronmar]

Started my habitat build...

Right side outer floor frames and band, squared and tacked in place.

 

[MatthewWBailey]

Started my habitat build...

Right side outer floor frames and band, squared and tacked in place.

View attachment 928466


View attachment 928465

I think it's pretty cool how you built the habitat first then just backed the truck underneath it. How will
you lower the house, I mean habitat, onto the frame?

 

[Ronmar]

I think it's pretty cool how you built the habitat first then just backed the truck underneath it. How will
you lower the house, I mean habitat, onto the frame?

Haven't figured that out entirely, but there is no problem that cannot be solved thru the appropriate application of high explosives...

 

[aw113sgte]

Started my habitat build...

Right side outer floor frames and band, squared and tacked in place.

View attachment 928466


View attachment 928465

Any concerns about welding weakening the frame? This is a common thing people bring up, but from drilling holes it doesn't seem like the frame is a really high tensile steel.