What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[LeftCoast32]

Lift ???

No lift, it is a stock height M1165A1B3FK5 without armor. It set really tall without the armor on it from auction. I have seen others with a 2" lift that were not as tall. It also rides really smooth like it has softride lift springs in it already. I am really impressed with the ride quality and would be apprehensive to lift it anymore then it is already.

 

[Coug]

A month ago my electric milemarker SEC12 winch I installed on the milemarker hydraulic winch plate stopped working on me, right after I spooled out the line and hooked it up to a vehicle to pull out of a river. Ended up just putting it in 4 low and reversing to drag the SUV up the riverbank.

Finally got around to testing today, and determined it's the winch motor.

Pulled it all apart, and found the brushes stuck in the rusty brush holder assemblies.

Going to try cleaning it all up tomorrow and test it, but from the amount of rust inside the motor area, I'm going to say that their claims of the winch being "waterproof" are greatly exaggerated.

edit: I've never submerged it or anything, I just live in Western Washington.

 

[TOBASH]

Fine small files and 200 grit sandpaper. Dilute Muriotic acid. New brushes.

I’m certain you’ll do a great job of it.

Please shoot some pictures.

 

[Coug]

Fine small files and 200 grit sandpaper. Dilute Muriotic acid. New brushes.

I’m certain you’ll do a great job of it.

Please shoot some pictures.

brushes themselves are in excellent shape, and 2 of them are soldered directly to a bar, so a little difficult to replace.

a before picture. I had already freed up some of the brushes. The brush on the top is the position all of them were stuck in when disassembled.

and another angle


plastic container with muriatic acid. It only took a few minutes to get most of the rust off. I also used a small file as well, then soaked again, and finally rinsed off then used electrical contact cleaner to remove the water. After that was about 3 minutes in the air fryer set on "dehydrate" which is 120 degrees heat, and it was completely dry.


a lot cleaner, but not perfect. This was after the first 5 minute soak in the acid. I checked and muriatic acid (diluted hydrochloric acid?) will dissolve copper, so I was being careful.



reassembled the brush assembly and back in the motor case


The hardest part was getting all the brushes pushed into their holders far enough to slide it on. I ended up using 2 small screwdrivers to hold 2 of the brushes, and used my hands for the other two. I still felt like I needed more hands.


That was all the pictures I took.

The rubber o-rings they use to seal up the motor assembly are a joke. Maybe a little over a millimeter diameter. The one on the drum end was just supposed to sit in a wide groove for the motor assembly against the case and didn't have an actual groove that I could see, so I used some sealant there instead. Just enough that it barely pushed any out when tightened down. The other end had a small groove, and didn't appear to have any moisture intrusion past it so I reinstalled as is.

I also took off the cover for the gearing and checked it out; no signs of water, but it was also closed with 8 small bolts and a real gasket. The aluminum of the case is corroding around the screws (stainless screws and aluminum don't like each other much) so I cleaned the powder a bit, and used some marine anti seize on the machine screws during reassembly.


Anyway, it's back assembled and worked how it was supposed to, but now have a new project to work on; the driver's side front brake caliper mounting bracket is loose and needs tightened down, like I've had to do with the other 3 (so not unexpected) as well as brake pads for both front brakes (I have all the parts, just not the ambition. Need to get it done in the next week and a half before I take it on a trip.

Here was the install thread for the winch if anyone was interested

SEC12 on milemarker hydraulic winch plate.

EDIT: I'm doing this mostly because I haven't seen much of anything about doing this type winch with the milemarker plate. Most of what I read basically stated that you either need the A2 plate and the extensions to do an electric winch, or other stuff like that. Figured I'd document what I...

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[TOBASH]

Great work and awesome photos.

I know what you mean about not enough hands. Years ago I confronted my parents as to why they never spent the extra moneys to have additional factory OEM arms with hands attached. Apparently they were pinching pennies as a young couple. I was a JC Penny blue light special. No frills or options.

 

[Mainsail]

I hauled a bale of hay in the back of mine, it came swirling up under the rear curtain and covered the rear seats. Looked like it was going to be a big vacuum cleaner job, but instead I took the doors off and got it up to 60mph and it all blew out.

Question, is it cruel to choose your parking spot at walmart to merely to induce emotional trauma?

 

[HoveringHMMWV]

Finished the faux Crew Duke antenna build complete with replicated “RF Warning” decal. Rapco antenna paint is a little off compared to Behr truck paint, so I’ll repaint the antenna.

 

[cahilj]

Question, is it cruel to choose your parking spot at walmart to merely to induce emotional trauma?

View attachment 925614

Not unless yours has this stenciled on the back too-

 

[Awol]

Took it for a little cruise. Was a beautiful day for it, 75° and a slight sea breeze.

 

[Mainsail]

This little project took far longer than it should have. Small spaces inside the can...

The ammo can is mounted on vibration isolation feet.

4" cooling fan exhausts out the bottom, two lighter-plugs, and one USB charger plug all a timer.

Top radio is a Radioddity QT60 that does 10 and 11 meter. Bottom radio is a Harris XG-100M for 33-48 (VHF low), 136-174 (VHF), 380-520 (UHF), 762-870 (700/800). Just the control head in the can, the radio body is under the back seat.



Locking the can was another challenge, no way was I going to have a padlock hanging off it. Not thrilled about the chrome, but it'll do.

 

[Mogman]

I picked up the 4 speed R1 today, there were a few pieces missing and someone unbolted but did not get the 4 speed shifter, the bolts are plainly seen installed on the auction photos, they have a security issue at the Lytle yard for sure.
There are a few more R1s at the yard.

Diggy Dog says let's hit the road.

I made just at opening time at my favorite restaurant in Beeville.
Diggy dog wants to know where her Chicom cookies are!!

 

[badger_610889]

Mainsail - love the lock on the ammo can. Definitely something that will go in my truck!

 

[Coug]

Will post more aafter I get home, but on my way to a camping trip and broke the throttle cable. Fortunately it was directl in front of an auto parts store. Spent an hour looking through cables in stock and nothing close.
They did have a universal throttle cable kit that was too short, but one end piece in the kit was close enough to replaace the broken end of the stock cable, and continued the trip.
Broken end is at pedal end of cable.

 

[mrfarb]

Spent time purging air from my p/s system. Truck has a noticeable humming sound inside that seems to be coming from the brake booster, so was hoping it would fix it. No luck, but now I know the air is purged. Pump isn’t noisy.

 

[Mogman]

Spent time purging air from my p/s system. Truck has a noticeable humming sound inside that seems to be coming from the brake booster, so was hoping it would fix it. No luck, but now I know the air is purged. Pump isn’t noisy.

It could be the Cadillac valve, they are known to be noisy and close to the brake booster, you should be able to put your hand on it and feel it vibrating.
Careful it could be HOT

 

[Gcelevator]

Relocate air filter restriction gauge and install tachometer

Hey Kurtvk, I bought the same Tach and today I went to test some connections and at idle my tach is all over the place upon acceleration ot goes back to around 1K and up as I accelerate. How is yours working? Of course, my connection was through the generator as I have the TD engine and not the NA. Attached is a link to the video. If you can help me understand or if anyone have any ideas I would really appreciate it.

HMMWV Tachometer connection

youtube.com

 

[Coug]

Will post more aafter I get home, but on my way to a camping trip and broke the throttle cable. Fortunately it was directl in front of an auto parts store. Spent an hour looking through cables in stock and nothing close.
They did have a universal throttle cable kit that was too short, but one end piece in the kit was close enough to replaace the broken end of the stock cable, and continued the trip.
Broken end is at pedal end of cable.

View attachment 926230

And now for an update, since I finally made it home a few minutes ago.
Just before I left to come home, the speedometer cable decided that it wanted to break as well. Or at least I hope it's just something cable related.
I used a GPS speedometer on my phone to get home, though as it was almost entirely highway/freeway driving, and I was being the slowest vehicle on the road, knowing my exact speed wasn't all that critical.

 

[TOBASH]

And now for an update, since I finally made it home a few minutes ago.
Just before I left to come home, the speedometer cable decided that it wanted to break as well. Or at least I hope it's just something cable related.
I used a GPS speedometer on my phone to get home, though as it was almost entirely highway/freeway driving, and I was being the slowest vehicle on the road, knowing my exact speed wasn't all that critical.

Your vehicle was the slowest on the road, and your speedometer cable is what you’re blaming?

I guess if that’s your story, you can go with it.

 

[Coug]

Your vehicle was the slowest on the road, and your speedometer cable is what you’re blaming?

I guess if that’s your story, you can go with it.

seems easier than saying I'm just slow.
Part of the drive was going over Steven's Pass and was only doing about 45mph uphill. Things did start smelling a little warm so was trying not to push it too hard.
Not sure if it's the cable or maybe at the transfer case end of things, as right before it stopped working I did a short off road trophy challenge involving hitting cups off of sticks alongside a technical course trail by using another stick held in my hand. At least this year for their challenge I didn't disqualify myself by doing the course too fast, but I did kind of run over a tree so got penalized for that.

 

[kurtvk]

Hey Kurtvk, I bought the same Tach and today I went to test some connections and at idle my tach is all over the place upon acceleration ot goes back to around 1K and up as I accelerate. How is yours working? Of course, my connection was through the generator as I have the TD engine and not the NA. Attached is a link to the video. If you can help me understand or if anyone have any ideas I would really appreciate it.

HMMWV Tachometer connection

youtube.com

I had the same issue when hooked up to the AC tap on the Generator, it was much better after i hooked up a voltage divider to feed the tach (4 to1 if i remember correct, made with 1 or 2 k resistors). i think the voltage out the Gen was too high for the tach. And you have to set the tach to divide the pulses also. Now, mine is hooked up to the RPM sensor for the ICE Diagnostics connector, much more accurate (1 pulse per rev)

This was my original post....... the pulses are about 30V peak

Frequency @ AC terminal on N3135 Regulator with 200A Alternator

Hi all, in the process of hooking up a Tach i got from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/ELING-Diesel-4000RPM-Tachometer-Backlight/dp/B0C7Z8NTXN/?th=1 I'm trying to figure out what the relation is between the Frequency @ AC terminal on the N3135 Regulator and the actual engine RPM's. Measuring...

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