majoday
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Good thought. I had not thought about that. It is certainly not hard to do.Wouldn't the play here be rotate IP #1 and #4 to adjust the fueling?
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Good thought. I had not thought about that. It is certainly not hard to do.Wouldn't the play here be rotate IP #1 and #4 to adjust the fueling?
I noticed the difference, but did not well process it. Thank you.I agree, verify barb distance from push rod tubes is about equal first.
When taking the temps it is very difficult to get accurate measurements because the fan tends to cool the front of the engine much faster than the back cylinder, which is also what your temp readings are showing.
Try blocking the airflow around the exhaust side of engine and take the temp at the underside of the head where the exhaust port sticks out, don't use the manifold as your target. If temp readings above are duplicated, rotate pump #1 a tad clockwise and #4 a tad counter clockwise and retest.
I was curious about that. All the way to the CCW it ran, but popped and made some white smoke. So, I moved them around to see if I could improve performance. That helped, but my system was not efficient. The set runs. 60 cycles, 240 volts and mostly maintains it. The motor has some vibration, that may be inherent in diesel, my tractors do. I noticed that my I/P's have a lot of shims. 2 have 7. I loosened slightly # 4, and i felt some lash, quickly tightened it. I believe, someone may have replaced, cannibalized this unit to repair another, swapping the I/P's (Perhaps). The I/P's with few shims had no lash upon loosening the I/P clamp. The Mod to the Regulator is in place. The alternator charges the batteries. Temp is 180. Oil press is @38. I put the muffler on, but I could see how the exhaust looked w/ it off, but it was very loud. I removed and dismantled the F/I's. I figured if a person built them, a person could repair or clean them. They were clogged, except for #3. I could easily see the 4 orifices. They were simple and cleaned up well. I am curious about #1, and will work on the set again on Monday. This is a complicated, but also fairly easy set to work on. Thank you for the insight!I would make sure the barb stems on all 4 IPs are aligned to the same position and retest the temps.
Open to see comments.I ordered a set of injectors. 2 were not working. I also found a u-tube video on a 3cyj teardown and assembly. They had applicable info, interesting. Status: AWP.
I love it! These codes are not used any more. In the day, when it was all pen and paper, there was a whole raft of Maint Codes listed on the DA Form 2407 and DA Form 2407-1. That made me smile!
Thank You! I have been reading and exploring the postings. This has helped me considerably. I looked into the interior of the motor, as much as i could. It is very, very clean. The metal has no residue found in motors with lengthy periods of service.As long as you read, and take your time, one step at a time, you will nail it.
Installed Injectors. Ran about 5 minutes or so roughly, white smoke. Cleared up after I remembered to tighten the I/J clamps. Temps were in the 185-190 range for 2, 3, & 4. 1 was in the 160's blocked off air climbed to 180's. Still not really smooth running. There must be a way to fine tune the injectors by turning them. I am AWP for a Master Switch for now. However, the Master Switch broke off at the knob. The plastic was granulated and the base is warped. Heat over 22 years affected it. Do you have a good source for this part?Open to see comments.
Open to read commentsInstalled Injectors. Ran about 5 minutes or so roughly, white smoke. Cleared up after I remembered to tighten the I/J clamps. Temps were in the 185-190 range for 2, 3, & 4. 1 was in the 160's blocked off air climbed to 180's. Still not really smooth running. There must be a way to fine tune the injectors by turning them. (Correct) I am AWP for a Master Switch for now. However, the Master Switch broke off at the knob. The plastic was granulated and the base is warped. Heat over 22 years affected it. (Very common happening with the Mark 1 switch. The switch that LITD mentioned is cheap. Jump on it.) Do you have a good source for this part?
I found a switch from Electroswitch for 94, S&H included + tax. Looking forward to installing and then following advice about setting injector stems equally.You should search
MEP-8xx S1 and S6 switch variations
Howdy, So many ask, but do not know. They do the same function. Pictures of the S1 and S6 switches. Plastic switches Bakelite switcheswww.steelsoldiers.comMEP-802A/803A S1 Master Switch Source - Electroswitch
My MEP-802A had a blue S1 that would hang in the start position so I started looking for a replacement. I found another blue one on the auction site for $90 and passed. I sent an email to Electroswitch: I wanted the NSN 5930-01-531-2976, Model 75902LV version. The folks at Electroswitch...www.steelsoldiers.com
I ordered the Electroswitch. Today, I spent some time studying the wiring diagram. Does the Electroswitch hook up following the numbers on the K/N Blue S1? Since you are the pathfinder, I thought I'd ask for your insight in order to proceed, when the switch arrives.You should search
MEP-8xx S1 and S6 switch variations
Howdy, So many ask, but do not know. They do the same function. Pictures of the S1 and S6 switches. Plastic switches Bakelite switcheswww.steelsoldiers.comMEP-802A/803A S1 Master Switch Source - Electroswitch
My MEP-802A had a blue S1 that would hang in the start position so I started looking for a replacement. I found another blue one on the auction site for $90 and passed. I sent an email to Electroswitch: I wanted the NSN 5930-01-531-2976, Model 75902LV version. The folks at Electroswitch...www.steelsoldiers.com
Howdy,I ordered the Electroswitch. Today, I spent some time studying the wiring diagram. Does the Electroswitch hook up following the numbers on the K/N Blue S1? Since you are the pathfinder, I thought I'd ask for your insight in order to proceed, when the switch arrives.
Thanks!!Howdy,
They are both the same. It's just that the electroswitch is made of metal, and that is the only difference. Make sure you move over the diode jumper.
Well, I either did an "old man, 75" thing or a "rookie" one; the jumper on the K/N fell out because I failed to identify it and tighten a screw. Wat pins does it tie together, or is it needed on the Electroswitch model? Thanks.Thanks!!