majoday
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Good thought. I had not thought about that. It is certainly not hard to do.
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Fixing up my MEP-803A"
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I would make sure the barb stems on all 4 IPs are aligned to the same position and retest the temps.
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I agree, verify barb distance from push rod tubes is about equal first.
When taking the temps it is very difficult to get accurate measurements because the fan tends to cool the front of the engine much faster than the back cylinder, which is also what your temp readings are showing.
Try blocking the airflow around the exhaust side of engine and take the temp at the underside of the head where the exhaust port sticks out, don't use the manifold as your target. If temp readings above are duplicated, rotate pump #1 a tad clockwise and #4 a tad counter clockwise and retest.
When taking the temps it is very difficult to get accurate measurements because the fan tends to cool the front of the engine much faster than the back cylinder, which is also what your temp readings are showing.
Try blocking the airflow around the exhaust side of engine and take the temp at the underside of the head where the exhaust port sticks out, don't use the manifold as your target. If temp readings above are duplicated, rotate pump #1 a tad clockwise and #4 a tad counter clockwise and retest.
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On the injectors you can remove them, open them up and clean or replace the nozzles and pintles but that's about it.
The pressure is adjusted using tiny shims under the springs and you need a pop tester, so not the easiest job.
To disassemble just unscrew the 12pt. cap on the end. Keep track of the spring and the disc underneath.
The nozzle tip has 4 tiny holes pointing out at 90* increments, you can use a magnifying glass to try to see and clean them with a couple strands of fine wire.
If you find that a pintle doesn't come out of its nozzle smoothly and easily, that injector is most likely leaking rather than popping.
The pressure is adjusted using tiny shims under the springs and you need a pop tester, so not the easiest job.
To disassemble just unscrew the 12pt. cap on the end. Keep track of the spring and the disc underneath.
The nozzle tip has 4 tiny holes pointing out at 90* increments, you can use a magnifying glass to try to see and clean them with a couple strands of fine wire.
If you find that a pintle doesn't come out of its nozzle smoothly and easily, that injector is most likely leaking rather than popping.
majoday
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I noticed the difference, but did not well process it. Thank you.
I was curious about that. All the way to the CCW it ran, but popped and made some white smoke. So, I moved them around to see if I could improve performance. That helped, but my system was not efficient. The set runs. 60 cycles, 240 volts and mostly maintains it. The motor has some vibration, that may be inherent in diesel, my tractors do. I noticed that my I/P's have a lot of shims. 2 have 7. I loosened slightly # 4, and i felt some lash, quickly tightened it. I believe, someone may have replaced, cannibalized this unit to repair another, swapping the I/P's (Perhaps). The I/P's with few shims had no lash upon loosening the I/P clamp. The Mod to the Regulator is in place. The alternator charges the batteries. Temp is 180. Oil press is @38. I put the muffler on, but I could see how the exhaust looked w/ it off, but it was very loud. I removed and dismantled the F/I's. I figured if a person built them, a person could repair or clean them. They were clogged, except for #3. I could easily see the 4 orifices. They were simple and cleaned up well. I am curious about #1, and will work on the set again on Monday. This is a complicated, but also fairly easy set to work on. Thank you for the insight!
I also looked into the generator motor. It is super clean. It leads me to think the 78 hrs. on the Hobbs are accurate for this machine.
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As long as you read, and take your time, one step at a time, you will nail it.
majoday
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I ordered a set of injectors. 2 were not working. I also found a u-tube video on a 3cyj teardown and assembly. They had applicable info, interesting. Status: AWP.
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majoday
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Thank You! I have been reading and exploring the postings. This has helped me considerably. I looked into the interior of the motor, as much as i could. It is very, very clean. The metal has no residue found in motors with lengthy periods of service.
majoday
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Installed Injectors. Ran about 5 minutes or so roughly, white smoke. Cleared up after I remembered to tighten the I/J clamps. Temps were in the 185-190 range for 2, 3, & 4. 1 was in the 160's blocked off air climbed to 180's. Still not really smooth running. There must be a way to fine tune the injectors by turning them. I am AWP for a Master Switch for now. However, the Master Switch broke off at the knob. The plastic was granulated and the base is warped. Heat over 22 years affected it. Do you have a good source for this part?
You should search
MEP-8xx S1 and S6 switch variations
Howdy, So many ask, but do not know. They do the same function. Pictures of the S1 and S6 switches. Plastic switches Bakelite switches
www.steelsoldiers.com
MEP-802A/803A S1 Master Switch Source - Electroswitch
My MEP-802A had a blue S1 that would hang in the start position so I started looking for a replacement. I found another blue one on the auction site for $90 and passed. I sent an email to Electroswitch: I wanted the NSN 5930-01-531-2976, Model 75902LV version. The folks at Electroswitch...
www.steelsoldiers.com
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If you head over to the big auction site, and use the search phrase ' ELECTROSWITCH ROTARY SWITCH 75902LV ', you will see one of the GOOD ones up, new, at $80.
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majoday
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I found a switch from Electroswitch for 94, S&H included + tax. Looking forward to installing and then following advice about setting injector stems equally.
majoday
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I ordered the Electroswitch. Today, I spent some time studying the wiring diagram. Does the Electroswitch hook up following the numbers on the K/N Blue S1? Since you are the pathfinder, I thought I'd ask for your insight in order to proceed, when the switch arrives.
Howdy,
They are both the same. It's just that the electroswitch is made of metal, and that is the only difference. Make sure you move over the diode jumper.
majoday
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Thanks!!
majoday
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Well, I either did an "old man, 75" thing or a "rookie" one; the jumper on the K/N fell out because I failed to identify it and tighten a screw. Wat pins does it tie together, or is it needed on the Electroswitch model? Thanks.
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Look at the schematic. Pins 1&7,
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Yes, the diode is required on the Electroswitch