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Fixing up my MEP-803A"

Ray70

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I agree, verify barb distance from push rod tubes is about equal first.
When taking the temps it is very difficult to get accurate measurements because the fan tends to cool the front of the engine much faster than the back cylinder, which is also what your temp readings are showing.
Try blocking the airflow around the exhaust side of engine and take the temp at the underside of the head where the exhaust port sticks out, don't use the manifold as your target. If temp readings above are duplicated, rotate pump #1 a tad clockwise and #4 a tad counter clockwise and retest.
 

Ray70

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On the injectors you can remove them, open them up and clean or replace the nozzles and pintles but that's about it.
The pressure is adjusted using tiny shims under the springs and you need a pop tester, so not the easiest job.
To disassemble just unscrew the 12pt. cap on the end. Keep track of the spring and the disc underneath.
The nozzle tip has 4 tiny holes pointing out at 90* increments, you can use a magnifying glass to try to see and clean them with a couple strands of fine wire.
If you find that a pintle doesn't come out of its nozzle smoothly and easily, that injector is most likely leaking rather than popping.
 

majoday

Active member
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Location
Bloomburg,TX
I agree, verify barb distance from push rod tubes is about equal first.
When taking the temps it is very difficult to get accurate measurements because the fan tends to cool the front of the engine much faster than the back cylinder, which is also what your temp readings are showing.
Try blocking the airflow around the exhaust side of engine and take the temp at the underside of the head where the exhaust port sticks out, don't use the manifold as your target. If temp readings above are duplicated, rotate pump #1 a tad clockwise and #4 a tad counter clockwise and retest.
I noticed the difference, but did not well process it. Thank you.
I would make sure the barb stems on all 4 IPs are aligned to the same position and retest the temps.
I was curious about that. All the way to the CCW it ran, but popped and made some white smoke. So, I moved them around to see if I could improve performance. That helped, but my system was not efficient. The set runs. 60 cycles, 240 volts and mostly maintains it. The motor has some vibration, that may be inherent in diesel, my tractors do. I noticed that my I/P's have a lot of shims. 2 have 7. I loosened slightly # 4, and i felt some lash, quickly tightened it. I believe, someone may have replaced, cannibalized this unit to repair another, swapping the I/P's (Perhaps). The I/P's with few shims had no lash upon loosening the I/P clamp. The Mod to the Regulator is in place. The alternator charges the batteries. Temp is 180. Oil press is @38. I put the muffler on, but I could see how the exhaust looked w/ it off, but it was very loud. I removed and dismantled the F/I's. I figured if a person built them, a person could repair or clean them. They were clogged, except for #3. I could easily see the 4 orifices. They were simple and cleaned up well. I am curious about #1, and will work on the set again on Monday. This is a complicated, but also fairly easy set to work on. Thank you for the insight!

I also looked into the generator motor. It is super clean. It leads me to think the 78 hrs. on the Hobbs are accurate for this machine.
 
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majoday

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Bloomburg,TX
I ordered a set of injectors. 2 were not working. I also found a u-tube video on a 3cyj teardown and assembly. They had applicable info, interesting. Status: AWP.
 
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Guyfang

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I ordered a set of injectors. 2 were not working. I also found a u-tube video on a 3cyj teardown and assembly. They had applicable info, interesting. Status: AWP.
I love it! These codes are not used any more. In the day, when it was all pen and paper, there was a whole raft of Maint Codes listed on the DA Form 2407 and DA Form 2407-1. That made me smile!
Open to see comments.
 

majoday

Active member
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Bloomburg,TX
As long as you read, and take your time, one step at a time, you will nail it.
Thank You! I have been reading and exploring the postings. This has helped me considerably. I looked into the interior of the motor, as much as i could. It is very, very clean. The metal has no residue found in motors with lengthy periods of service.
 

majoday

Active member
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146
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Location
Bloomburg,TX
Open to see comments.
Installed Injectors. Ran about 5 minutes or so roughly, white smoke. Cleared up after I remembered to tighten the I/J clamps. Temps were in the 185-190 range for 2, 3, & 4. 1 was in the 160's blocked off air climbed to 180's. Still not really smooth running. There must be a way to fine tune the injectors by turning them. I am AWP for a Master Switch for now. However, the Master Switch broke off at the knob. The plastic was granulated and the base is warped. Heat over 22 years affected it. Do you have a good source for this part?
 

Daybreak

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You should search

 
Last edited:

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,691
21,642
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Installed Injectors. Ran about 5 minutes or so roughly, white smoke. Cleared up after I remembered to tighten the I/J clamps. Temps were in the 185-190 range for 2, 3, & 4. 1 was in the 160's blocked off air climbed to 180's. Still not really smooth running. There must be a way to fine tune the injectors by turning them. (Correct) I am AWP for a Master Switch for now. However, the Master Switch broke off at the knob. The plastic was granulated and the base is warped. Heat over 22 years affected it. (Very common happening with the Mark 1 switch. The switch that LITD mentioned is cheap. Jump on it.) Do you have a good source for this part?
Open to read comments
 

majoday

Active member
76
146
33
Location
Bloomburg,TX
You should search

I found a switch from Electroswitch for 94, S&H included + tax. Looking forward to installing and then following advice about setting injector stems equally.
 

majoday

Active member
76
146
33
Location
Bloomburg,TX
You should search

I ordered the Electroswitch. Today, I spent some time studying the wiring diagram. Does the Electroswitch hook up following the numbers on the K/N Blue S1? Since you are the pathfinder, I thought I'd ask for your insight in order to proceed, when the switch arrives.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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740
113
Location
Va
I ordered the Electroswitch. Today, I spent some time studying the wiring diagram. Does the Electroswitch hook up following the numbers on the K/N Blue S1? Since you are the pathfinder, I thought I'd ask for your insight in order to proceed, when the switch arrives.
Howdy,
They are both the same. It's just that the electroswitch is made of metal, and that is the only difference. Make sure you move over the diode jumper.
 
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