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Yes, the glow plugs are supposed to see 12v, not 24v. However, without a load on it, ie the glow plug relay engaged and all the glow plugs working, you won't see 12v at the input side of the relay. If the glow plugs are supposed to be on when you are making that measurement, and you are seeing...

That is great news! Did you find the cause of the short? If so, what was it?

What rich said.. use a meter and make sure there is no continuity between the mounting tabs of the relay and either of the small terminals... heck, there shouldn't be any continuity between the mounting tabs and the big terminals either... :-)

Make sure the GP relay has the small terminals electrically isolated from the relay's mounting tabs. Otherwise, in a stock system, the relay will be engaged when it shouldn't be.

Possibly coming from the glow plug resistor bank. Could be just debris on the coils burning off, but I'm guessing that is not it. I'd suspect an issue with the glow plug system staying on for some reason. There is a glow plug system troubleshooting guide in the -20 TM that should help narrow...

Sounds to me like there is air getting into the system someplace. I'd start by replacing all rubber fuel lines that have not been replaced recently.

The relay for the voltmeter doesn't "power" anything.. it just provides the ground path for the voltmeter. However, I don't believe that there is anything else in that circuit.

Um, you mentioned that you installed batteries... does that mean that it didn't have any when you got it? If so, are you certain they are hooked up correctly? Have you verified if it is still in the stock 24/12v configuration or has it been converted to 12v only? Also, please check the TM...

LEDs are Diodes.. current only flows in one direction. It is my understanding of the GEN light function that current needs to flow in both directions... on way to light the bulb when the alt is not charging, and the other way when the alt is over-charging. The lights go out when the system is...

What you are describing sounds a bit like the relay is chattering, is that correct? If so, that is a sign of weak or failing batteries. As mentioned, check / clean all the battery connections and have the batteries load tested.

Burnt fusible link. Check the fusible link thread in the helpful threads section of the CUCV forum.

One relay is for the voltmeter, the other for GEN 2, the exciter circuit I believe. The way the voltmeter is wired, it is hot all the time, so the relay switches the ground connection when the key is in the run position, so you may want to keep that one unless you rewire the gauge power supply...

If you are talking about what I think you are talking about, the "Service Lights" switch should be in the "on" position all the time. Then the rest of the lights should work just like any other truck. In general, there is no reason not to leave that switch in the "Service Lights On" position.

Find a shop that has an 11' pole? :-D

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/cucvwinterfront.htm

Are those the Astrovan seat bases or the M1009 seat bases? If Astrovan bases, could the seats have been moved to the M1009 seat bases?

Is there anything else mounted next to that voltmeter? The base-plate the voltmeter is mounted to needs to be isolated from ground, as that is how the gauge is wired, IE hot 24v at all times, with the ground connection switched by the relay under the dash when the key is on. Adding another gauge...

Yes. Make sure the proper support bracket is in place. Then you can check for the proper clearance between the starter gear and the flex plate ring gear to determine if shims are needed.

Perhaps the GEN 2 relay under the dash is bad / missing?

In stock form, both alts are 'isolated ground' which means that the are not grounded through the case, as most alts are. In the case of GEN 1 - driver's side - there is a ground wire connected to the intake manifold and the ground stud on the alt. GEN 1 can be replaced with a standard alt...