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Per the GM Product Training Manual for the 6.2 liter diesel engine: "The filter used in this engine is called a full flow filter, because all engine oil normally flows through it. If this full flow filter becomes clogged, the engine is equipped with a by-pass valve which is spring loaded. This...

Are you maybe thinking of the one at the oil filter base?

Maybe try disconnecting the vacuum line at the modulator on the trans and see if fluid comes out?

Fluid should *NOT* run in the vacuum line. I'm just trying to figure out what else it could be. Perhaps if the vacuum modulator on the trans is bad, it can have fluid in that line, but I don't know. Maybe one of the guys with experience rebuilding the trans can chime in? Also, I added a diagram...

I'd like to know how to do that...

Perhaps it is the steel line for the vacuum modulator? Or the dipstick tube?

Look up the part numbers in the -20p or -34p TMs, then do a google search for them. They may be NLA though, unless someone has some NOS.

Hole worn into the metal cooling line?

Fully charge the batteries, and then have them load tested. My guess is that the rear battery is bad.

Don't forget it goes to the Tach Buffer module before going to the diagnostic plug, so may need to find it before the module, though I don't know what affect the module has on the signal. I agree with this. Use a relay that is switched by 12v, perhaps taping off the hot side of the voltmeter...

If you are worried about what others think about it, post in the hot-rodding / modding portion of the CUCV forum. In any case, your truck, do what you want with it.

Group 31 car / truck batteries will work just fine. If you can get them, call your local Interstate dealer and see if they have any "blem" batteries in stock. May save you a lot of money. I've had a set in my truck since I bought it, and they work just great!

Perhaps one of the new components is bad? Or maybe an issue with the armature?

That looks to be about right, though it should be directly in the radiator, not sticking out like that one.

In stock form, the sensor in the radiator is for the 'low coolant' light.

Should probably cover the alts to keep water out of them.

I was just thinking the same thing!

When the "instrument panel" is "on", all the marker ( parking ) lights are supposed to be on as well.

Make sure to check the condition of the ground tab in each light socket, as they are known to go bad and break off.

I would start with checking the various voltage readings relating to the charging system. There is, I believe, a thread in the helpful stickies thread that lists what to expect at the alternator plugs, etc. Other than that, you could pull them and have a rebuild shop test them for you. As to...