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Beat me to it, I agree with the above- Could be the alternator is doing it. Try removing the large wire that attaches the the passenger side alternator, leave the wire off for a week and see if the battery is any lower.

I suspect that you lost a fusible link. Check the voltage at the back of the alternator, if none, follow the wire back to the blown link.

Sounds like the batteries are low. You need to put a charger on them and then have the batteries load tested at your local auto parts store- you can't load test weak or dead batteries. If they won't hold a charge then they are bad. Are you sure that you didn't leave something on that is draining...

After reading this thread again I see that you may want to run a 950Watt air conditioner. I doubt that a 1200W inverter will start that load. Most motor loads require 6-9 time the rated current to start up. Will that inverter deliver that much? I suspect that you would need a much larger one. If...

If you do what he is saying you are basically running your inverter independent of the vehicles body ground- you are setting yourself up for possible short conditions as the entire inverter will have to be isolated from ground. You will not be able to mount it to the vehicle without electrically...

Using a resistor will not work for you. This only works for the glow plugs if the power dissipated by the resistor matches the glow plugs- this is why if one glow plug goes bad the rest are soon to follow as the voltage will no longer be balanced. The alternators are matched to each battery...

Did you drive them on the highway at all? The definition of loud is relative. You drove three of them so you now know how loud they are.

Does the light come on when the key is turned to the run position? If not the bulb may be out and the source of your charging problem.

I would take in to AZ for them to check that alternator, sounds like it is going bad.

Does this tach use the signal that is available on some alternators?

I was thinking right behind the passenger seat. At one point there would have been some power wires running there....so if they are still there you could mount it on the side of the truck.

Have you thought about mounting in the back where the radios would have been mounted? You would just have to move the wires over to a 12V source. I probably would avoid mounting it on the floor for the reasons you mentioned

I would get under the truck with a volt meter and measure the voltage on that small wire to the solenoid when someone turns the key to start.

Glad to hear that you got one. By any chance do you have the part number for the one that didn't fit? It would be good to document as in the future someone may not be able to obtain the NOS one. Thanks.

Sorry I don't have the answer you are looking for. As far as I know they never came with the six digit odometer as you said, so it was probably replaced at some point. When GL sells trucks they mark the mileage exempt on the title, they also state somewhere in the fine print that they are as is...

Usually the generators are capable of 120/208, so a transformer is not needed. Some generators can be configured for 120/240 single phase, I don't know if yours can. Tell us what generator you have so we can better help.

Gm part number found searching this forum: 14077157 http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/30906-m1009-flywheel-question.html Also found this number in the TM (9-2320-289-34P, figure 4), there it is called "Flywheel"

From the search function in this forum I see that it is supposed to be 139 teeth for the 700R4? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/15440-starter-flexplate-flywheel-question.html

I seem to recall the original being around 15. Most people that run a 2 are running multiple staged filters. I am running a 30 spin on, only because the mount came with it. I would recommend that 10 micron

As to the alternator, he is right, we have covered this before on this forum. Also in case you didn't know the manuals are available on this site under the resources section as pdf files.