Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Well, the simple answer is that you over heated the truck when the belt that runs the water pump broke. You should have pulled over as soon as the belts broke - it is not safe to drive without power steering and also the brakes. Then the truck might been repairable with new belts if you stopped...
It "could" be the fuel filter, but usually you will notice a loss of power before the filter plugs to the extent that the motor won't stay running.
If you change the filter you will have to bleed the system. The instructions are posted all over the place in this forum, please use the search...
The cheapest is to drop the oil pan and see how things really are- no cost yet.
If you really want to save money and time you should go and get a 1990's small car- way better mileage and reliability. You could probably buy the car for the price of a used engine.
Since your truck wiring already seems to be altered I would probably just go with a push button and avoid the controller. Since you actually have the 24v glow plugs and not the standard 12v ones, the circuit need to look something like this- 24v to the relay on the firewall, then to the glow...
This is a frequent question, so just to restate it, the stock glow plugs in the CUCV's are designed to run on a 12V system. The reason we are able to use the 12v plugs is due to the big resister on the firewall being part of the circuit. If you want to use 24V plugs just bypass the resistor. If...
It does sound like a bad battery- I know you said that it was replaced. but the symptoms do indicate a possible bad one. Take it to your local store to get it load tested. Also bad, loose, or corroded connections can cause these types of issues.
If you have 14.4 V across the battery it sounds like it is charging properly. Maybe you have something draining the battery when it is off. Try removing the battery wire when not in use to verify.
Low oil pressure can also be due worn out bearings or the parts that ride in them. You have cam, main, and rod bearings. To replace the cam bearings you will have to tear the motor apart. Now while you have the pan off to do the oil pump you could take a look at the main and rod bearings. You...
Alternators are generally > $100, or you can rebuild yourself for about $35 each. Keep in mind that the alternators are not the same as the civilian model because of the isolated ground. The engine dying could be related to the charging issue as the fuel cut-off solenoid will stop the fuel under...
As you learned do not do this. Do not even use a resister- it must be the real light bulb. The charging circuit is designed to use the light bulb as part of the sensing circuit to control the output of the alternator. Anything else used in place of the bulb is used at your own risk- you may end...
When I read that they wanted to use copper I also assumed 100% copper. If the poster indented to say something else- I didn't get it. All I ever see in the parts stores is the steel type.
Good luck, most states don't even allow you to transfer a title that wasn't transferred properly to the previous owner and the SF97 is not even accepted by many states. Have the previous owner get the title or consider the truck as parts vehicle.
There are also fusible links that could have blown. They are harder to test, but I think you need to find them and test. Look in the Wiring diagrams in the -20, page F-1 shows the starting circuit and the fusible link.
If you run that truck while it is putting out 19V you will burn everything out- that is why your voltmeter is in the red. If you haven't already you will also burn out the lights and ruin the battery...I have seen batteries explode from overcharging. What help do you need? you know that your...