Search results

Good catch!

I don't think you should view these trucks as any different than any other 25 year old car when it come to repairs and maintenance. As with any 25 year old car that has seen hard life it will need a lot of attention. Would you be willing to own a 25 year old car and expect it to be reliable as a...

Only the M1010 came with the 24V alternators, Leece Neville made them.

no m1008's came with 24v alternators

The fusible link protect the wiring. The links are usually sized one wire size smaller than the wire it is protecting. So, if you are using 8awg then the link should be 10 awg. I think that you over sized your wiring though. Size the link off of the original if you are concerned.

Most cucv's came with 12v alternators. What model do you have? The 24V ones look very different from the 12v ones.

Going to a smaller wire does not make any sense. Just get the correct fusible link or bypass the fuse and be done with it.

If you are using a fuse that is your problem, you need a fusible link. The correct fuse size would be over 100 amps. They are not the same. Get the right link or just delete it completely.

Well, when you let the magic smoke out it usually won't work any more. It sounds like a bad connection- since it worked before. I would disconnect everything you did, wire brush or clean the connections, make sure the wire is in good condition - not coming apart at the lugs. Check the grounds...

I just did an internet search on your part number, 1998367 delco Remy, and it comes up as a 12v starter.

You know that you can jump with standard 12v car, one battery at a time. In your case just jump the back battery since it had low voltage.

You may have fixed the charging problem with the work you have done, but the 20v on the rear battery is a problem. I suggest charging the rear batter for a while and see if it works.

Glow plugs operate like a light bulb that gets very bright, so like lights they sometimes can just burn out for no reason - nothing wrong. The problem with the way the stock wiring to the plugs is done is that if you lose one plug, either it burns out or bad connection at the plug, the voltage...

Can you point me to the where in the TM it says to "Pull a few out and look at them" at the glow plugs when troubleshooting? Don't waste your time looking at them- that is not how you troubleshoot glow plugs. You need to start actually troubleshooting. There have been many good suggestions...

Removed to prevent further confusion on this issue.

What does this mean? Starting fluid? If so you most likely still have a glow plug problem- even though you said you did all of the tests. What is the voltage on the plugs when the key is first turned and the wait light is still on?

I'll take a guess, before the wait light goes out, if you measure 12V at the glow plug side of the resistor then the resister, relay, and glow plugs are working.

The time would likely be less when warm out....I would start at 5 seconds. I don't know how long it will take to burn the new ones out.

Could be the hood? The inner braces on mine have all become unglued.

If the lights used to work before you changed the bulbs, you probably have a bad connection or ground. Now for your brights, it could just be a bad bulb- or bad connection. The sockets that connect to the bulbs are 25 years old and prone to corrosion. Turn your lights on and wiggle each...