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Does anyone know what this bracket is? It's down in front of the left motor mount- has a curved slot in it. Hard to see clearly in the picture, but it's inside the white circle.

Well, it has nothing to do with the blower whatsoever. I checked both alternator belts and they're tight, but on a whim I poked the PS belt and it was loose as a goose. Seems the outboard-most bolt unscrewed itself and departed the fix. The washer was still laying on the frame rail oddly...

Are you talking about the air filter and assembly, or the snorkel hose that runs to the firewall? The air filter and the assembly that holds it in place is absolutely necessary. The snorkel is not. It is on the civilian vehicles primarily to quiet the sucking sound that the engine creates...

This morning I drove the M1009 to work like always, only today I was getting a lot of belt squeal, and eventually the belt was squealing all the time. In the parking lot I tried a few things and it seems to be isolated to the heater blower. When it's on, the voltmeter is just into the low...

Looks like supply is out of flight line and prop wash.

Drove the wife up into the Olympic National Forest to cut a tree. Hard to see but it's tied on the roof.

I spotted the ad for that bike the other day; nice work!

ALT + 0188 = ¼ ALT + 0189 = ½ ALT + 0190 = ¾ You have to use the number pad not the row of numbers at the top of the keyboard.

M1009 center console?

Drove up to Ikea again. The trailer means I don't have to own a pickup truck. :driver:

I thought the bed was sitting up too high as well. Will you be painting the trailer to match the truck, or the truck to match the trailer?

Wait, what am I missing here? If the trailer is already free-backing, why are we discussing drilling holes or installing switches?

These are the links I use behind my WK; two on each side.

Hi Norm, This is the riser I'm using: https://www.etrailer.com/Pintle_Hitch/B_and_W/BWPMHD14005.html This is the pintle hook: https://www.etrailer.com/Pintle_Hitch/Tow_Ready/63014.html

If you follow the hood release cable on the driver's side kick panel to the firewall there ~should~ be a black plastic cap about the size of a half-dollar just below it. Pull that out and a rubber plug should remain. Now find the other side of that rubber plug in the engine compartment. It...

CARC in the engine compartment sorta says it was a M1009 at one time. Looks like a wrecking yard buy that was made drivable (I can't really use the word 'restored'). I can't tell from the picture but if there's a diagnostic plug under the dash that would also be a good indicator. EDIT to add...

Uh...no. Coming off that terminal is 12V, coming off the aft terminal is 24V (and providing 24V to the bus bar).

That would be a tough picture to get; they're really only visible when it's completely dark outside. No light you fit into that little hole is going to do much, I doubt you'd even be able to tell they're on if you power them with the headlights on. Probably the most interesting thing you an do...

If the GPs are powered off the big bus bar behind the aft battery, you did it way wrong. You want to use the little bus bar just above the GP relay as shown in the OP's pictures. If your GPs are getting power from the little bus bar already, then something is wrong upstream. Follow the wire...

I would take an angle grinder and grind the head off, then remove the bracket and yank the remaining bolt and rivnut straight out with vice grips.