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Most likely it is back as far as it goes. Once you take the seal and bearing off you will see there is a step that the seal sits on and won't go all the way back.
I just used a small ball peen hammer and worked my way around the back of the seal. Of course this will make the seal unusable but I was replacing them all anyway. You also could use a crow bar and block of wood against the backing plate to pry the seal off.
Sounds like a good deal. I commend you for the ability to put up with the ins and outs of dealing with the politicians. I wouldn't mind a $100 for a plate that would allow me to use my deuce as much as I wanted and for anything except commercial.
6 of one and half a dozen of another. At least they seem willing to work with the MV folks. Time will tell here. Glad to hear you gentlemen are making positive progress.
Not a concern about the chips. They are, if any, on the hot side and will just blow out. If you really are worried you could drill the hole with the engine running.
Mine had the same style primary filter as yours. The only filter I have found that self centers is the NAPA 3113/WIX33113. Even with the cone on wrong there is a fair amount of back cut up in the mount so a decent amount of fuel could still go through.
Won't save much on fuel unless you do a boat load of miles. Won't really save any on tire wear either. Will save a little on wear and tear on front end item like steering knuckle "U" joints, stub axle hub bushing and front drive shaft "U" joints. Might cut down on vibration some sense you don't...
The ones I've seen just have the nipple on the air cleaner outer can with no cap or cover. No reason you couldn't cap it. It serves no purpose unless you have the fording kit and I really think I would re-route the air compressor intake anyway.
The spring for the compressor filter is to keep pressure on the filter to hold it firmly against the mounting surface inside the filter housing. The metal plate is a separate piece in mine.
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