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Just wondering how you bent the Head quill shaft cutout washer. With the TM and trouble shooting manual all the threads on removal plus the sticky it's hard not to get it right. Now there is the extra oil filter or oil feed head on the G pump that needs to be removed before removal of the head...

Looks like I need to brush up on my series numbers! Never was any good at them to begin with and Google is my friend for now.

Been a long time but one of my 939 series the wire going up through the high low leaver to the button was a ground wire. Yes I checked it for being a ground wire and if it could ground out then it would engage the solenoid when we do not want it to. Have read some say the same wire is positive...

Just spit balling could the Trans. lock up solenoid be staying engaging when you go into high or low and releasing the button be pulling down the motor?

He is replacing the whole IP is what I was reading not the Head and that is the way we do it. Booster will put a lot more fuel in the crankcase than the flame heater because the flame heater puts it right into the intake. Booster at 60 psi leaking seal dumps it into IP and right into the crankcase.

In this case if the truck was running good and you have not removed the IP yet maybe just do the booster pump alone. It's work but not to hard move motor over. Also as said look at the oil feed to IP rubber line while your there.

You can remove the IP any time you want without lining up any timing marks. On install before we install IP or the IP drive gear we can set the IP head timing and harmonic balancer. I just find it faster to set the harmonic balancer on #1 TDC before removal of the IP. Then we set the IP timing...

So you looked over both manuals? There is the TM9 and the LDS trouble shooting manual here on the board. It might seem difficult but it realy is not that bad of a job. Also if you decide to replace the IP remember to replace the rubber oil feed from block to IP. Was going to tell you to call me...

When you have air leaking out of the transfer case vent the sprag shaft seal to transfer case is leaking. Some rebuild kits come with the new seal that we can replace when we R&R the sprag piston and cylinder.

Your sprag cylinder need R&R. As someone said no O rings but TM calls them preformed packing. You can wait on buying parts if you want because you might just need the two preformed packing and two new copper crush rings. Or you might need the kit that has new cylinder to if yours is rusted out...

Yea had one that needed a little help with the lever to engage. Myself I drained checking for water. Then refill and working the lever back and forth Fast and Furious as many times to wipe the corrosion of the metal parts. To add I had my son in the cab ready on the clutch if I could no...

To the OP glad you found the trans problem. Reading the TM's sure does help.

Don't get your panties in a wad and please DO NOT tell me what I assumed and yea I should have said driveability or waiting for the turbo to spool up. This is and will be discussion and learn sight. Heck you even learned that the compression ratio is 22:1 not 24:1 on our Deuce this week thanks...

Thats funny most people that say they bypassed there FDC and adjusted there fuel are happy with the way the run now and feel the differance. You ever bypass your FDC or do you still say you like it being there. Nothing wrong with a little fuel in your oil pan and keeping the military fuel set...

Will agree the intake with engine coolant running through it and no inter cooler not the best for making power. The turbo that is spec out for the multi to run at 2600 rpm or 2850 rpm for the LDS and make good power in all the RPM range. To big and you might loose that range. Saying put a bigger...

You would be surprised at what you get with just a Pyro, FDC bypassed and playing oops adjusting your twin nuts. When we talk about the 7 o clock position on the fuel control unit assembly that is not even a full plunger of fuel. How often do you drive around at 2600 RPM? I would not replace...

Yea was replying to 162tcat that said his 939 series batteries were next not his Deuce. I had two 939 series one I did the battery relocate and the other I said it was a waist of my time and money. I was just pointing out in the 939 series as long as they as tied down correct and sealed...

Broken left femur, left hand nerve damage and right eye loss of some sight. Yea no fun there just glad it was a company truck that hit me and had 300k insurance. Bad was it was my new truck with little mileage good was I had gap insurance and truck got paid off by the insurance.

Yea 162tcat while the 939 series batteries seem to be in a strange place it also will keep them from shorting in salt water so higher is better. Had my batteries shorting in just brackish salt water in my 816. My 939 series came with 6T sealed batteries under the passenger seat so safe around...