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I am BAFFLED as to what could be causing this. Occasionally when I make right turns I hear a metalic scraping sound coming from the right front wheel well. This is especially apparent when the suspension is compressed during the turn (like going over a speed bump) but also occasionally occurs...
Got the fatmat direct from their website. Here are a few updated pics of my truck. I realize the headliner looks a bit like hammered ass, but I also really don't care, as it's quite functional, and the day I try to pretty up my CUCV is the day I should drive it off a cliff!
Well, an update on my M1009. Since buying it in Nov 09 as a bone stock M1009 I've done the following:
1. Replaced the dash pad with a new production urethane one (allegedly UV proof, time will tell)
2. Added air conditioning by way of a Nostalgic Air Parts kit
3. Covered the seats with a...
Why yes, yes it is! Double thick on the floor, and a layer on the ceiling from the windshield to the rear window, spray painted flat tan. It's almost quiet in there now!
So a while back I had a NAP A/C kit installed in my M1009. It has been great, but I didn't opt to relocate the blackout switches, so there was a duct to nowhere hidden behind my dash. Well it goes nowhere no longer! I went to an airplane parts company and got an eyeball vent and installed it...
I got a new production dash pad off of Ebay for about $250 delivered. It's dark gray and actually looks pretty good. It's a solid piece of rubbery plastic with aluminum inserts. I had to get creative in mounting the dash clips to it though. It's held up well, but isn't exactly straight, kind...
It's where the electrical junction box for the driver's side ejection seat goes. The removed the junction box when they removed the ejection seats prior to handing it over to DRMO.
probably could loop a cable lock around it, especially if you're locking up a rifle like an AR15 that has a front sight base you could loop the cable through.
I generally don't consider my M1009 secure one bit, and will not keep anything in there I can't live without. These trucks are a lot of...
I got a NAP A/C installed a while ago, and instead of reloacating the blackout switches, the shop that I had do the install work just left the last vent open behind the dash. Right now it's just taped off, but I'd like to locate it somewhere near where it would go without the switches. My...
I'm deployed from Robins right now or I could have lent a hand. I've got the tricked out M1009 with tint, a/c and a stereo. I was the envy of Fort Gordon when I was up there a few weeks ago!
i guess i was lucky... a 3' pry bar and a hammer broke mine loose. now it's free spinning by hand.
You could also soak the thing in some PB blaster... hose it down good, let it sit for a day, and give it a shot. If it's a no go, repeat the process a few more times.
I can't say enough good things about the NAP in-dash kit. It's a bear to install (I had mine professionally installed for $500), but it's totally worth it. I would NOT be driving my M1009 right now if it weren't for my NAP A/C kit. It blows SUPER cold, and with proper insulation will make the...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/52615-i-have-air-conditioning-running-m1009.html?highlight=air+conditioning
I had a kit from Nostalgic Air Parts installed in mine. VERY good, but will make you realize how un-insulated your truck is. I'm in the process of insulating the interior of my truck...
I replaced the window weather stripping a while ago and ever since then the driver's side window will NEVER track right going up. It always wants to jump the track to the outside of the truck. Usually if you pull it inward when you're getting started it stays put, but every so often it jumps...
those under-dash ones still use the same under-hood components as an in-dash kit, they just don't have any in-dash stuff. The evaporator box and vents are all contained in the under-dash unit. You still have to mount the compressor, condenser and dryer under the hood.