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I'm not debating that.... Wouldn't it be nicer, better, easier on the engine if it ran consistently 10-15 degrees cooler?..... Just because I might have shocks on my GMC Sierra that can take a beating doesn't mean I need to hit every pothole in the road.... These hmmwv's run on the warm side...

My overall hope was that getting more air through the (coolant) radiator it would be nice if the coolant ran 10 or so degrees lower. Not so much now but central VA in the summer is HOT and HUMID, like so much of the south. Cut back on the clutch fan running so much. A little cooler wouldn't hurt.

I own my second HMMWV... high maintenance money wasting vehicle. I can't say if they are inherently unreliable... Good maintenance will certainly go along way to reducing issues, just like any mechanical device. Wondering what the expectations were from the military... I'm sure it depends on the...

I was thinking about putting 1/2" spacers between the oil/trans cooler and the radiator. My thought was by adding additional space between the two it might have better air cooling for the radiator and not run as hot all the time. Has anyone done this? and does it offer any positive effect. Thanks.

I have the proper tools. It's more a question of right now my hash marks are 3/16" retarded and whether 8 tight injector lines can take moving the marks 3/16" back into alignment without over stressing them.

My fear is, not knowing what monkeys had their hands on it before, the hash marks are 3/16-1/4" offset to the retarded side. Concerned if the tight injector lines can handle the amount of rotation without over stressing them. Also if someone put gasket sealer on the IP gasket "gluing" the IP in...

I agree... Eight tight injector lines won't want to move very easily. That's probably the majority of the resistance.

Hopefully no one put gasket sealer on it:mad:

The engine was hot when I tried this so it may have been grabbing the IP.... I'll give it a try when cold.

I hate to even ask this question, but with my luck I felt I better. The IP is currently retarded and I want to align the hash marks. I bought the curvy wrenches and the tool to actually move the IP. Three - 12point nuts are loose.. I have an extension on the IP tool for leverage. Doesn't seem to...

The injection pump timing could be off (are the hash marks on the IP and the flywheel lined up). Did you replace the control box (smart start system box) with all the other new stuff? Those are all the basic first maintenance items. New fuel filter ?

Send me a PM to discuss. My belt is showing some signs of wear.

So without AC it's the HM-955?

Found it....# 12446828 . Engine harness......... Thanks

Figures...... Thanks.

Will this work on my M1123 (200amp) alternator or did I piss $55.00 away? Thanks. HMMWV Glow Plug Distribution Box Interface Harness P/N: 12379865

The +6 Black Rhino wheels are very close to stock...maybe 3/4" farther out.

I found this neat diesel timing instrument on ebay. Retail was $420.00, but got it for $200.00. Based on the slash marks on my IP housing and the timing belt cover it definitely looked retarded. The screwdriver test in the cold start advance lever indicated it was retarded. Hooked up the DTI...

wheel spacing is 9.5" and backspacing is 5.5". I'm running 37x12.50 tires. The +6's are so close to original it's hard to tell the difference.

God, I hope I never have to do that...