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Ronmar, you deserve the SS exemplary service award for circuit analysis on the FMTV vehicles! Thank you!

The terminals on these sensors are typically glooped up with RTV which only holds moisture underneath. Terminals are usually rusty/oxidized. Might check that first. My reference is to leave the screw connections open.

When you took it apart you probably noticed the plunger (that zips back and forth when powered, or not) rests on a plastic or hard rubber seat. In the non-powered position the long term sitting allows the plastic to extrude into the air tube at the axis of the plunger, sticking it in place...

It has been fun watching your project! Thanks for sharing.

The LMTV 12 volt trailer connector (on the right rear) is the "7 pin round" configuration with pins on the truck, pointing out. I mention this because two of my trailers are 7 pin blade and I also needed to adapt. Etrailer sells an adapter, the F77R that worked for my needs, a 7 pin round to 7...

i have 3.07 ratio and my truck shifts to 7th at just over 45 mph (GPS verified). That's with "Normal" 395 Goodyear tires. There's a huge difference somewhere and I, too, would like to know what it is. Top speed is untested. Cruise at 55 is comfortable. At that speed the engine is at low...

Good advise which I will heed. Thanks! Looking forward to your video.

Has anyone had the stalk apart? Its not obvious how to disassemble it. Mine is occasionally intermittent and I want to try to treat the contacts, without tearing it up trying. thanks,

Buying directly from Gov auction is high risk as you know. Buying a checked-out LMTV from someone who does this as a hobby (ie, for money!!) is much lower risk. Find out what they warrant. Beware the reseller who just passes it along with a high mark-up. That truck could still have original...

Have not seen that but maybe unplug the connector to the windshield and try again. Bet its a shorted wire somewhere, not windshield related.

Anyone on the road pulling an M-105 trailer with no brakes and smaller vehicle should put their wife/kids/GF in a car in front, as a buffer. I don't want that behind me or my family in an emergency situation. You HAVE to plan on an emergency situation! We have all had them. And why do you...

Thanks! For anyone else looking, here's a URL: **All adapter plates are intended for Off-Road Use Only, they are not DOT approved, and should not be used on the street. ** il...

Looks great! I want to do that! My M105 is towed behind the LMTV and the spare is always in the way in the trailer. Covering the M-105 with the LMTV spare would be great! Where did you buy those adapter plates? Thanks

From the A1 schematics, 12v BATTERY voltage is required to provide 12v IGNITION (logic line) needed by several modules. The 12v IGNITION logic line comes from K2 relay which has a 24v coil but its 30 and 87 contacts close the connection from 12v battery voltage to 12v ignition control line...

Ditto, I had not found a kit either. Thanks Wes, you the man! You might disassemble and clean the face-seating seals in both circuits. Those are traps for dirt. I found small gravel in mine. Cleaned and still working many miles later. Beware the springs!! Post 7 of this thread has info...

Followup on 12 volt headlamp bulbs: A replacement headlight bulb is the H6024 (Sylvania, Wagner, etc) Halogen 7" standard bulb. A socket that fits, for conversion, is Dorman 84790 high temperature headlamp socket. Both were ordered through my local Auto Parts store.

Is it still possible to buy the 12v headlight bulbs with the military connection wires? My local parts store finds the number but it is obsolete, replaced by a bulb with the slip-on terminals. When I find the proper 3 terminal connectors I'm switching over to the off-the-shelf headlight bulb.

Could there simply be air getting into the system? Unfiltered fuel gumming up the works would manifest as fuel starvation at higher speeds and high loads, wouldn't it? Air getting in would cause starvation at low speeds, at idle as you indicated.

https://www.finditparts.com/products/986790/dana-holding-corporation-673240 Looks like a source. I have not bought one to verify. Another reason to get rid of that valve is it's weight. That big hunk of brass will wobble on the stem as you drive and distort the stem, often enough to swedge...

Maybe the starter is stuck in the "engaged" position?