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Hey, I've never messed with a 404 so I don't know how to deal with them, but I thought that total timing was just that; max total advance. In other words, set it to 10- 14 degrees in this case (if that's what it's supposed to be) then take it from there. In real life I rarely use the timing...

If I didn't have jacks laying around already, I'd definitely look into getting one of those. But I need to cleanse the garage out somehow, even if it means using a weaker and harder to adapt version. It's very gratifying to get things done without having to buy anything, and free up space in the...

I'd use a dial back timing light (because it's easier), then adjust the total to 10-14 degrees at whatever rpm it has reached or exceeds full advance. Or, you can use a regular timing light and mark the 10- 14 degrees on the damper.

That's about what I had in mind, too, alpine. I have the 2x4 tubing, but need to check the capacity of the trailer jacks I already have. Yours is overkill, I'd think, mine may be underkill. And of all things, this SEE came with the official pin for the loader support in place. Of course, other...

Finally got a chance to spend some quality time with the SEEs, the "formerly" to be specific. A couple of days ago, changed the rear hydraulic fluid, which created a large mess due to the fuel tank sitting so high on that one. Today the new hydraulic cooling fan that was bought to replace the...

That's what I did. Twice. And to retain more of the info, I'll probably reread the entire thing again soon. Not sure how far I would've got with figuring these FLU beasts out had it not been for the SEE, HMMH and HME thread.

It may well be a myth, but it took different tools to make those speaker holes in the M1009. I still have one of the pieces that were cut out, and it can't be bent by hand. And if I kicked or hit the body panels on a civilian counterpart the way I have on CUCVs, there would be dents as a...

If you don't have a spring laying around to try with, I'd go to the store, splurge and spend a buck (possibly two) and buy a new one to find out if it's the spring. Or, shorten one end of your existing spring. Not knowing what it looks like, I'm only guessing that it can be done, but usually...

I kinda like the look of that engine as it is. Too bad you'll have to disturb the mud in places, like for checking the oil.

Not that I've tried it myself yet, but apparently the air lines usually won't come off as intended, due to paint and/or other reasons. Unless one wants to replace or repair the air line - which may not be a bad idea since it would facilitate future maintenance - that leaves getting lubricant...

Even if that hill side is close to the house, I'd try to use the loader and/or backhoe to get unstuck first. Then, once back home, I'd start the trouble shooting. Stuck diff locks apparently aren't uncommon, but did they work before? If not, try spraying some penetrant up into the "drain"...

Not knowing any better (the M1009 was bought to be a daily driver, which it ended up being for 10 years) I simply installed a stereo in the normal factory location, then picked an old fender mount version out of my pile of antennae an installed it in regular fashion. It all worked fine, because...

Did you put it in Reverse, or just dump the clutch once it built a bit of speed? If it's the latter, I can certainly understand that it ended up running backwards. Should result in good fuel mileage, though, without the extra drag of the oil pump.

You know darn well that I lack the equipment and knowledge to do anything You-Tubey. And even if i did, it could turn into a hand propped air plane situation if I was outside filming instead of at the controls. Anyway, if I parked my SEE with the loader, stabilizers and backhoe down, I'd lift it...

A FLU shouldn't need any batteries whatsoever to run. Park on a hill and roll start it. It may not be kind to the alternator, but it's fully doable. Just don't stall the engine in an awkward spot.

Phillip, good to hear your voice again (even if it's only in writing). For those who don't know, they work Phillip hard but he's still willing and able to help with whatever issues come up.

I would imagine that they figured that the jumper cables are being used for a reason, therefore the wiring is routed to minimize any voltage losses. Forgot to put the master key in once when jump starting a SEE, and sure enough, just like the wiring (and diagram) suggests, it wasn't needed.

Try to keep it together this time, too, okay? And don't roll just to show off all the paint underneath.

I recently got thrown for a loop using a load tester (the cheap kind) on a set of Optima Group 31s. Three of the four passed the test, but as it turned out, they were no good. Or at least not good enough. At one point we had a total of eight Optima Group 31s hooked up, six of them through a very...

Hey, that's no laughing matter. I grenaded a 10-bolt on what was basically a wet lawn, with macho tires.