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I like them, mostly because they make the vehicle look purposeful. Tall and wide tires may look macho, but with a low-output diesel and 3.08 gears, little skinny ones look intelligent to me.

Yeah, but how affordable could that stuff be, coming from Overcash Ave.? Or maybe the street name came after all that stuff was purchased with tax dollars?

That may be true for a SEE, but to get the pistons off on an HMMH's cylinders, the hydraulic shop had to build a tool. After over 30 years in the business they had never seen cylinders quite like them. The weird part is that while being from different manufacturers, both the forklift and crane...

That's a good idea, alpine. I'll try that with the SEE one of these days. Despite using the free float quite a lot with the tractor for back dragging (especially in the last stages of smoothing things out) I've never tried it with the SEE going forwards. And since rock is scarce around here...

As far as I know, it's only the shape of the toolboxes that stand in the way of complete interchangeablity. Luckily for you. the SEE's rear box will accommodate the crane, but not the other way around. Oh, and the lock-down support is in a different position, I think. The crane will operate...

I can't say with any certainty, but I'd think that the "refurbished" 20K ones mostly have had the fluid levels checked, and given touch-ups or new paint. Plus, hopefully, any issues taken care of. All of which it sounds like you could handle yourself - and probably better, since you're not doing...

I'd rather win a non-runner than one that GP has managed to start. Not only do they cost much more, but there's a good chance that the hydraulic cylinder seals are still in good condition if GP hasn't operated anything without cleaning the crud off the rods first.

I think it's 170. It's been mentioned somewhere here on this thread. Early on, as I recall, in discussions about making small cranes to lift it up into place.

That can be a blessing in disguise. My latest purchase, meant to be a parts car, is very nice due to having been shaded from the sun. Hoses, paint, and such look like everything was put together only a few months ago. Aside from forklift damage, it's probably the nicest one I have. Yes, it took...

Well, I've had the same girlfriend for a long time now, so I'm out of practice. But it's probably like riding a bicycle, right?

You remember correctly, tennmogger. It's an over-center design, so it's only a matter of timing the movements of the lever correctly. Or should be - there might be more to it in peakbagger's case. Both the SEEs I use will easily lock the boom at low rpm, at least if they're not on a steep...

I wrote reply a while back, but the "load failed". In short, I'd buy a HF jack good enough to lift the front axle, and then some. Use a 20% off coupon. Tennmogger beat me to it, but 6th gear is the easiest way to turn the engine (mechanical leverage) and your taller tires help, too. Not being...

Better safe than sorry, but I think you're overly cautious. Take the rear wheels off if you want to be (more) sure that the vehicle won't go anywhere. But like Speedwoble says, it should stall with the wheels on...which may be why they recommend 6th gear. Or am I misunderstanding the whole...

I would start looking for something that blocks the boom's travel. Then make sure that the pivot moves freely. Then that the "locking flap" is in the correct position fore and aft. Since you've probably already looked into those things, about the only other explanation I can think of is that the...

After seeing that the 50/50 acetone and ATF mix I've been using lately will seep through the seam at the bottom of a crimped oil can, I'd give it a try.

Have you considered buying a donor car? It's often less costly and definitely more convenient than chasing down all the individual parts. Then you can sell the leftovers, sometimes even making a profit.

That is odd, peakbagger, unless as Speedwoble suggests, you're not reversing the lever when the boom is getting close. I generally get it to lock in just fine even at 800 to 900 rpm, and have never paid much attention to how level or leaning the SEE is. Why such low rpm? I don't like all that...

Now you're talking. Easy to acquire and install, but high maintenance. And the more I think about it, if wanting to lean a SEE for loader use (or whatever reason), or just to basically eliminate the suspension for loader use, air bags front and rear would be my first choice. I started my quest...

Yes, I'm aware that you are interested in the front while I'm primarily interested in locking out the rear suspension. But I still think that for front use it would be easier to use air suspension than a hydraulic setup. It would be for the rear, too, except that as mentioned earlier, the weight...

For rear use, I was thinking that swinging the backhoe would compress the suspension on one side, then close the valve, and repeat for the opposite side. That would obviously be time consuming for front use, so I would likely use air bags instead. Individually operated, of course.