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No breaks, yet. I tend to select gears relative to the speed I'm going, and load. That means downshifting in preparation for a downgrade, for example.
If a steep grade takes me by surprise, or I'm forced to slow down even more because of traffic, then I'll downshift to reduce speed.
To me...
Please don't tell my GM trannies, past and present, that they were/are supposed to blow up when I use gears instead of brakes to regulate the speed. Especially when towing.
Joseph, I hope you realize that by putting those 3/4-ton springs on a 1-ton, you give up 700 lbs. of capacity in the front.
If you never carry any loads to speak of, that could help ride quality. Or if you only use bumper pull trailers, which transfer load off of the front axle, they may also...
Yeah, definitely something's not happy there. One of these days I'll have to have a talk with my 1008...which won't up shift properly.
But at least I know why. Its new pump didn't connect correctly to the trans. I'll try running full vacuum to it - if it shifts too early I can always downshift...
It doesn't work that way for me, Ahab. Especially number seven and eight.
I decrease my energy by wasting it on walking, rather than wrenching. And my bones and joints have a limited number of miles left in them, much like my vehicles.
Number 11 really isn't a problem for me. I cut myself far...
I do a lot of work from memory. Or, more specifically, lack thereof.
It's rare that I remember to bring all the tools I need to the vehicle I'm about to work on. That makes me walk more, which is work.
You might as well start your trouble shooting. In my case I ended up having to change the filter housing anyway - likely because I wasn't the first one to use the bleeder screws excessively.
Anyway, you inspired me to try again. It was a mixed bag.
Fuel gets to the pump, and to the bleeders, but...
That must be a different setup than on the HME, then. Those have a button on the dash for "Hydro Drive".
Unless all that does is to let the torque converter do its thing, and the torque converter is normally locked up, making the gear box and clutch work as usual.
Interesting. But since the front and rear systems are completely separate, as far as I know, it makes me think that there are two switches for the rear system. If there indeed are two switches, I have no idea where the other one is.
Speaking of tugs, I'm trying to learn more about those as I was recently told that the 406 tugs have the same hydrostatic drive setup as the HME. Would you happen to know if that is indeed the case? And if so, how does it work?
Alright, that narrows it down a bit. I'd use the handy dandy Ohm meter to find out what's happening between the switch and fans.
It's been a while since I had that cover off, but I only remember one switch. If that's what you mean.
Yeah, that strainer may not be as effective as it could be. But if it's clean inside, I don't think it could make the engine run crappy, either way.
What I find interesting is that you have the barbs on both ends. On mine there's a threaded fitting on the inlet side, which is quite helpful when...
You'd have to run the hydraulics for quite a while before the fans get energized. At least mine works that way.
I'd treat the idle and fans as separate problems if I were you. And would begin with putting power to the fans at the thermal switch on the cooler. Either they will run, nothing...
Well, few things last forever. Including the factory wiring insulation.
Maybe we should wait another decade or two before starting to trust liquid electrical tape? Nah, if it fails, I'll just reapply a little as needed.