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If I really wanted LOTS of air....... (like enough for a 400hp Cummins) I would go with this one, the Donaldson G140526 Exactly this one...... Give @gimpyrobb a call, he should have plenty of them, still!

Not personal experience, but what that man in the vid is explaining, is exactly what happened to my buddy, not too long ago. (His is an older Chevy with a TH400) Video: Got water in your transmission?

:ditto: This is the original wheel for reference: (tubeless 20x10, 10-bolt, 2pc bolt-together)

Understood. Problem I see is you will end with a very wide track width, that way... The stock axle measures 74" btw wheel mounting surfaces. Plus the spacers makes it 78". But the overall width (over fenders) is only about 83.5". Assuming your Jeep wheels have a 5" backspace, the tires will...

No, the stock trailer wheels are NOT hub centric. My Q: Why would you want 2.0"-thick adapters? Can't they make them in 1", or even less?

Let me know if you still need one.

HMMWV MT/R tires: Some go, some blow.... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/goodyear-mt-r-tires-safety-message.178785/ From my own experience: out of about 50 tires sold (all are LR "E" and dated 2008/2009) only ~10% of them have failed, so far. They all start to develop cracks right here...

Not the sealers! It's the sellers who know... And you better believe what they claim since they always tell the truth...:razz:

Brake shoe return springs rusty & weak? Linings worn down, allowing for excessive shoe travel? Brake hoses old, with possible restriction or swollen, so that fluid will only return very slowly?

Please note: See above post. And it's been almost 4 years since the OP has last posted anything. Buying/selling stuff in the open forums is not OK. If you need something, please post an ad in the Classifieds - Parts Wanted section.

I did: there is no UOC for the tie rod ends, at least. According to TM9-2320-280-24P, Fig. 170, both parts (RH =2530-01-189-2195; LH = 2530-01-197-2160) are the same for all variants.

That. Leave the locknut (sorry, lockwasher that is...) out and check your torque frequently, especially at the beginning, after every (short) trip. Eventually (and gradually) that arm will slide up a few more mm until it stopped moving any further. Pretty sure at that point it got as tight as...

That would be great; just let us know.

Difference is .23" (almost 1/4 inch longer than stock) I will have to take a closer look, too. You are right that the hub won't interfere. I think there is a reason for them studs to be kind of short. But it wouldn't be the first time I'm wrong...

Haha.... I just came back from my shop, after checking exactly that! See my post above, now edited.

Careful: original studs are shorter, on both ends. You certainly don't want them to protrude too far! Sadly, none of the typical bolts & nuts suppliers have the exact size studs, so you must go with the 2.0in-lenght and trim them down, on both sides. Edit: I just checked one of those...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-209-20-3-2.pdf Chapter 13, pages 63-72

Take a look at my sectional drawing of a typical HMMWV tire/wheel assembly.... (everything is exactly to scale) I'm sure you can see the reason now, for my response in post #25

:ditto: ... if we are talking about runflats. Not to be confused with plain bead locks (which I strongly recommend using instead of runflats, in all cases. That one I must disagree...