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That picture of a MEP in the bed of a pickup truck is the manliest thing I've seen all day...

When I picked up my unit I found that the item description contained pictures from another unit that was in better shape.

Interesting, link to document?

#6 has the current carrying capacity you need, you'll be fine. Voltage drop for 50' of #6 is only a volt more than #4 at max current. I went with #4 because it's my hobby and I wanted some overkill. Code tells you the minimum required to prevent fires, the only penalty for going bigger is to...

One benefit of over-sized conductors is less voltage drop over distance. This becomes a bigger issue as distance and current draw increase.

Thanks. With the exception of the 1/4" aluminum plate, everything for the generator receptacle and cover on the generator came from Home Depot. Sorry, no part numbers. Go to HD and find the receptacle then start piecing together a way to solidly mount it and cover it. Get the plug for your cable...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/outlet-plug-for-my-803.179261/

Got my switch today, thanks for putting this together! -- Carl

I would still test it to see if it siphons and I would supervise aux fueling operations. Floats stick, sensors fail, and overflow makes a mess. For my situation there's not enough return on investment to leave it on auto.

>since my storage tanks are higher than the gen tank... Depends on what aux fuel pump you've got and the height differential. I found that my setup would siphon after turning the pump off, resulting in overflow. I supervise aux fueling and break the hose connection at the high point when done.

An assumption being made here is that the load meter is correct. Wouldn't hurt to verify it with a clamp-on meter before making big changes.

How do you tell if the radiator itself is clogged?

I'll take one.

Guyfang has the right answer, I cut the harness off the pump I was replacing and moved it to the new one with soldered connections and adhesive lined heat shrink. So far, so good.

Wrangling the disconnected ends of my fuel hose was always a minor irritant for me. I like a nice, neatly coiled hose with the ends capped. I had these cheesy plastic caps that would go missing when I moved things around. It occurred to me that I could use a bulkhead coupler to cap the hose ends...

Maybe a good starting point for a diy spider box?

From the pdf... "Ensure that the fuel is not in contact with any surfaces containing zinc or copper or compounds containing those metals (eg. brass). If those metals are present then a metal deactivator additive may help." What is the standard issue dip tube made from? -- Carl

Thanks, I'm really happy with how it came out. Yep, pallet jack to move it, table stays put, action shot below... -- Carl

I really like my generator but it takes up a big hunk of floor space. I can move it around with my pallet jack but it always seems to be in the wrong place. I decided to do something about the situation to get the generator out of the way and make better use of the floor space: I built a work...

I measured 2 ohms from negative battery terminal to ground on one of the lights, and 4 ohms from the positive side the the light. That doesn't seem bad, but then again I'm not sure what the good range should be. Pro tip: if you ever find yourself in a tight spot and need an arc welder, a 1/2"...