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Not much to enjoy... the way you posted that data...!:???: Please give us the link to that chart, so we can have it posted as such - (and readable, after all)

Don't forget to submit feedback, if he is a vendor on this site.

... with just one pin?:? I guess it's the boss on its front face that should keep everything aligned. Measuring about Ø124.4mm (4.897"), while the bore in the adapter is Ø124.5mm (4.900"). Close enough.

I would just remove that pin and assemble without it.

LOL... yes, the TMs...:smile: What if I said that over the past 20 years I (systematically and successfully...) have eliminated each one of those valve stem grommets - no matter if civilian or military wheels, and regardless if those grommets were still new or not. ... And that I ONLY use- and...

:ditto: Exactly that...! Plus minor dents- or imperfections like rust-pitting - even cuts on the O-ring itself - can be addressed with PU-sealant (typically Sikaflex 221). And don't forget to inspect the tire beads themselves, especially on older tires...

Thread moved to the CCKW forum.

:funny:

... and I wanted it a little better than that....:-) .... So I disassembled the whole thing, de-rusted and cleaned everything, then drilled a small hole through the upper hinge part, so that it could be greased with a needle nozzle (and using synth grease only). Good for another 50 years...:wink:

Specifically, this bolt.... I have had them out, but only after applying some good heat.

From our rules: • Do not post links that are known to "go dead" after a short period of time.

Keep It (Stupid)Simple..... Oil returns where the stock fuel lift pump goes, after it gets replaced with an in-line electrical unit.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?120611-Deuce-window-channel-felt-thickness&p=1509427&viewfull=1#post1509427

I have worked on these exact wheels, too. (modified the air supply so that they could be used reversed, on a MB fire engine which originally had rear dual wheels) ... And of course had to reuse the original O-rings... Being that they are so slim and barely protrude from its grove on the main...

14022660 is the 6.2L block model number, from 1982 up to year 1991. So there is more than one out there...:-) The engine's serial number is what is unique to each; found stamped in this area...

:? ... for the 1610-series DS? Wouldn't it be CP279X (or Spicer 5-279X) U-joints?

1) Back in the old days they had no RTV-sealants, so cork was the best solution... Read this thread, down to post #13: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?94195-Rear-Hub-Removed-A-Few-Questions 2) If you had a #3920 bearing cup, loose, place it on your inner bearing cone (well seated...

1) Your (rear) studs are OK to re-use, after a thorough, visual inspection, of course. 2) You can either re-use your so-called "thimbles", or use the regular 3/4"-16 lug nuts (like on the fronts) to mount your wheels. But you cannot put the thimbles on, first and then install the wheel because...

PARTS DIAGRAMS & -NUMBERS: TM 9-2320-279-24P-2 (DEC1998 ); Fig. 432 and up. Find it here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?117532-TM-9-2320-279-24P1-M977-HEMTT-Parts-2-of-2&p=1473413&viewfull=1#post1473413 M977 ARMAMENT EQUIPMENT MAINTENANCE, covered in this one, TM 9-2320-279-20-3...

You might want to ask for a quote from this company, also: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?171162-United-States-of-Freight