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If you ever have the top cover off do all the return lines and well nuts. Its alot easier to do both of these with the cover off.
May be worth having 2 well nuts and a roll of return line laying around. Its prob $65 in parts.
An 802 can run a few window units that you keep in your basement for alot cheaper than buying and maintenance on two generators.
We need more specs on your AC.
Personaly i dont see a 9000hr set worth much more than a good running parts set. So for me $500-$1000. But if you have a lw hour set you will most likely not need parts.
At 5,880w out of a 802 im sure a bit of smoke is normal. Your really at the top end of what that set can produce. Mine does 5,500w and thats it.
Where you getting alot of black chunks out of the exhaust? If not your set dosnt need to be ran way up in the range as its not wet stacked.
Smoke coming out of a 802 with 52a is prob not a good thing. Stop taking the machine over its rated capacity, your not doing it any favors by doing this.
Why 15kw? The AC? Usualy the start up is the killer.
I wouldnt go messing with any transformers with such an expensive central AC. Get a window unit for an emergency. There alot cheaper to replace than the first repair on a central AC.
Spare filters would be a minimum to me. Its not like you will never use them. If your in a cold climate where diesel can gel i would have two sets of fuel filters.
I would also keep things like fuel hoses and other such rubber parts around but the BEST "part" to have around is the MANUAL.
You can open the oil fill on any engine and have oil mist coming out when running. Taking out the 4in long dip stick and having oil mist come out is totaly normal. By pulling the dip stick tube you would be removing any vacuum.
Removing a part and expecting the engine to run per spec is not...
At 22in on each side that dosnt give you much room to open the door. Much less open the door and get by them. But in all reality these things dont need much maintenance.
I still want to build a roof over mine. Just keeping the snow,rain and sun off it will help a ton im sure.
Wow thats prety bad. You had to smell that before you bought it no? They didnt get in the engine did they?
Bead blaster works real well on cleaning up aluminum.
A buddy of mine worked for Prestone for many years in there testing lab. I asked him what to use . He said use motocraft VC7B. Its usualy about $20 a gallon in consentrate. I believe autozone carries it.
Do not use Dexcool in anything..even if thats what it calls for dont use it. It turns...
Its alot easier screening the holes than to build a shelter...but there for different things. You should screen the intakes no matter where you keep it.
I dont get any "fireballs" out of mine.
Simple green or any other degreaser will work just as good with some water and not be so toxic.
Eather way you need to clean, dry and run while watching for the leak.
If the oil was thick as tar i would fill the thing right up to the top of the dip stick and let it soak. Then with the fuel off crank it over a few times. Then do a oil dump, fill, run and flush.
Never buy any engine thats warm and running when you get there.
How many volts are your batterys...
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