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It should have a 3208 cat in it. if it has an inline pump it will have the predecessor to the 3208 i cant remember the numbers forr it the only difference is the fuel system and injectors. tune up procidures are the same.
they are a standard 2 inch mechanical internal valve you would find on a tanker truck if you want a full rebuild you need to find a manufacture on it most likely it would be a Morison. Usually the only thing that leaks are the o rings in the cross shafts, and for diesel you only need a butyl...
I would have to look at mine but i think they just added zeros to the sn you will have to have it there for dmv to physicaly check the sn and you will have to register it as a cmv . there is no way around it in the state of ak any vehichle that weighs over 10.5 k will be registered as a cmv...
im living that way now in alaska i live up by the arctic circle where daylight is even less. my power is off an 8k lister 2 cyl built in the 70's im currently living in an atco trailer while i build the new house. here is what i have learned. my trailer is heated with a toyo lazer 73 i also...
it does look to me to be around 4000 gallons i maintain a fleet of tankers and our largest is 4400 gallons on 3 axles it stops just fine most water trucks work off road with limited on road service. i think the project looks real nice and should work well when used as most non potable water...
i install and use freeze plug heaters where it gets real cold the heat from the internal block will raidate in to the the oil pan. With a 500 watt block heater plugged in all night at -25 the engine will crank and start just fine and 15w40 oil will flow mine started today at 11 degrees with...
There is no reason for a dual voltage alternator on a cucv, yes you can charge battery number 3 from the front battery. my suggestion would be to charge it through a battery isolator so you don't run down one of your starting battery's while winching.
A 6-b or 6v 53 would be a more practical swap in to that truck the long 6 will take up half of your cab even the little b cummins will likely require some fire wall mods.
the afc on teh fuel pump is only an emmission device its not required for forced induction to work. im curretly working on some komatsu dozers with nhc 220 engines in them with turbos there is no afc.
i have done a lot of long distance flat tows with never a problem, unless you dont get the transfer case in neutral yes the hubs need to be unlocked if you were towing cross country i wold trailer it just because the load would handle it better, also when flat towing you want a 1 ton truck...
you must be talking about the drive shaft and the container is called a yoke. if you are flat towing there is no need for this just put your transfer case in neutral. if you insist on removing the drive line, it must all come out and a plug stuck in the transfer case
i dont have pictures to post but while im waiting for o rings to come for my tires i have one now with 2 cracks and 5 plugs total in the side wall keeping teh tire aired up so im not walking around on foot. i had to go running on run flat 2 days before teh rain let up enough i could go look...
if it was an electronic engine you replaced it should have came with a new ecm bolted into the side maybe its not programmed right for your ctis. im in teh process of replacing a cat c-7 right now it came with a new ecm on it.
i would s
till have a plug kit handy before pulling the screw out some times they seal up pretty well. i would not drive it the way it is i picked up a nail on a job site once i didnt know it was leaking and wasnt in run flat i had a side wall blow out 45 minutes later. it may not be leaking...
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