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Don't know about those extra mounting holes, still looking... Based on several images, I'd say that, at least, the rear sling kit components were left in place. Check out the images below. Hope you get over your cold. We have had nothing but rain lately.

The original (military) Primary fuel filter is 40 microns. It's more of a water trap with filter for large particles. It operates at a low pressure of about 8 psi from the in-tank fuel pump. The Secondary and Final fuel filters (Purolator/Facet #053161-04) are 5 microns and operates at a...

You are right Mike, I'll be watching this trailer with a jaundiced eye. :-)

Glad you got it working...when adding ground wires, remember to use the "star" washers (hardened and cad plated) to punch through any paint and create a gas tight connection to the chassis. The gauge mounting bracket has two pointed ends for this purpose as seen in the image below. NOTE: The...

Right Kenny, but located in WA, the shipping of the generator head to VA (if the seller would even want to take the time to separate it from the engine) would be prohibitive.... :-) gas consumption isn't that bad, about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 GPH with a low load.

A pegged needle indicates "open" circuit. The fuel sending unit is probably not grounded properly. The unit is grounded via the mounting screws to the tank, via the tank to the fuel pump mounting plate and on to the connector for the fuel pump. From there it's the #79 wire to the frame and from...

Here is a "dolly" that we used on one of Jason's (jasonjc) containers when I was passing through back in '06. It may not be your size, but I image they are available for all the standard containers.

Outstanding attention to detail as usual, Charles. I'm gonna grab this opportunity to brag about my old class mate Bosse, from the Stockholm area, he was building models in the sixties and is still at it. The scale is 1:24 and every part is made from scratch. Note the comparison to the matchbox...

Hi Jason, consider this, the "solenoid" on the starter has two windings, one to engage the pinion gear while turning the starter motor (the winding is grounded via the motor) and one "holding" winding. The "pull-in" winding is de-energized when the solenoid relay portion closes and also begins...

To protect the start button contacts, add a diode (1N4004 er equal) as shown in the attached.

It's a good chance that your start push button is bad. The inductive "kick" from the start relay will eventually burn up the push button contacts. To test, just short the two wires from the start switch. That will apply 24 volts to the relay (the other side of the relay coil must be grounded, of...

Right, the leak could add 1qt of fluid/1,000 miles to the crankcase. The FDC piston rod begins to leak when impurities in the fuel mar the surfaces of the lapped-to-fit mechanism. WMO is probably going to make matters worse as far as the leak goes (=not clean). Too many dirty and rusty fuel...

At 23.8 you are reading the battery voltage and I'd say the you are beyond the range of adjustment. Most likely a bad regulator assy.

Here is a similar plug on an m43 modified in 1959. Apparently power for air conditioning/heater, lights and a computer system...

With the air-boost system at least, you still have power to the airpak after the engine stalls out, which would kill an engine powered, if that's your solution, "hydro" (=hydraulic) boost... Compare m35tom's dual airpak system on his "Millennium deuce". If you want to supplement the stock...

Good info rlwm211 and thanks for posting! On average (long trips), I glance at the pyro far more often than the speedometer for example, and it's located on the steering wheel column to make it easy to check. Personally, I don't have any problem with "driving by the EGT". The EGT is generally...

Right, my understanding also. I drilled a 1/8 dia hole in the intake manifold for the #6 cylinder, making sure I didn't hit the water jacket and installed a thermocouple and another in the intake manifold adapter. Temp in intake manifold at 10psi boost was around 225°F IIRC and the temp at #6...

Tom has major fab skills and should be able to come up with an alternate solution. I agree with Jollyroger's thoughts.

The local recycler/scrap dealer pays $.23/lb for an electric motor or generator, which includes the iron and aluminum stuff... That's where it's going when all useful parts are taken off.

Work on this off and on and removed the rotor to see about getting the stator out. It would be very difficult to fix a wire to wire short between two windings IMHO, so I'm looking for another MEP018 or at least a "new" head...