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Yes, but reassembly may be a problem...

The battery tender should have wiring so that each battery can be addressed separately. The "Chargetek 500" does this and will restore charge individually so that they end up within millivolts of each other...important when charged in series. I would also recommend that the maintainer is wired...

Here is the label, 2 minutes "ON" and 2 minutes "OFF" is the duty cycle.

If you can find them, there is another choice for the primary filter, used on the 1969 m656 8x8 series trucks, shown below. No filter element to replace, just turn the handle to clean and drain...

FWIW. To test your batteries using OCV, here is a chart, possibly from a link posted by Mark (an earlier save). Note that the battery must have been at "rest" for 8 (eight) hours before making this measurement. If a LA battery including AGMs, sit for long periods in a state of discharge, they...

Silicone will not seal out the water molecules. The case will breathe the ambient air unless you have a hermetic seal. Let warm, dry ambient air take care of the fog, like mentioned by rosco. In the end the only practical solution is a vented case.

A LA battery will sulfate when at less than full charge. Under normal operation the recharge after cranking will restore the battery (reverse the sulfation process), that's why you rarely have the problem with your civy car, which is recharged daily. A solargizer will not restore full charge if...

About $35.00 plus shipping.

It's actually on the label on the the pump. I have a picture somewhere, but hard to find among all my back-ups after my computer crashed last Fall...if I can locate it, I'll post it...

Yes, system can be removed in its entirety. The pump may have limited usefulness for other applications since it's only to be used intermittently.

I agree, with the ground still connected any accidental short to chassis from the battery (+) terminals will create a spark of major proportions. Never adjust terminal clamps while engine is running. Consider a battery maintainer to keep both batteries equally charged. Also, check out battery...

Still holding up well considering that only silicone glue ("Goop") was used and the eyelets. Had the top off a couple of times and no problems.

FWIW, try to do without the teflon tape (white or yellow), it makes a mess when you have to take apart the parts later. Use a paste type sealer on pipe joints. No sealer should be used on tube fittings...

Mike, think of the joint being protected by the boot as an axle housing swivel joint. The U or CV joint is lubed with grease inside the housing joint. The gear oil in the differential and the center part of the axle housing is prevented from reaching the U or CV joint area by a separate seal...

:funny: Had to say something....need to get out more...

So you guys are actually putting 15" wide tires on stock deuce wheels, wow...wheel should be 10-12 inches wide...no wonder you have trouble mounting them, not to mention safety issues driving with that combination.

When I used the mep018 last year, the average was about half of what the TM listed, but running the house, which does not have AC, doesn't tax the set that much. Here is the table from MIL SPEC 1401 for the engine.

Any progress on this? There are relatively few mep018 projects posted here, aside from mine, so it's good to see another pop up from time to time...

Got working on the genset again and found dirt and small rocks inside, which could easily have caused a problem if jammed up between the rotor and stator. Didn't see any evidence of that though... Brought the generator head to the recycler today. FWIW, the head weighs 269 lb.

Right, once the engine is started and the alternator charging (the batteries on the other vehicle is the load), you will create voltage spikes that will kill the alternator and possible other electronics on the A3 when removing the jumpers. For trucks that don't need batteries to run, like the...