Search results

I agree. When I attack the remaining stuck joints tomorrow, my first plan is to remove the grease fitting and clean out the grease inside the bolt with a drill bit (by hand) or other long tool (e.g. screwdriver). That way I can try to get as much Kroil in there, as close to the stuck as possible.

I have used Kroil for several years. The stuff works great. http://www.kanolabs.com You can get it on Amazon, and I think at Lowe's. For this grease joint rejuvenator you need like 1/3 ounce (my guesstimation) for every "syringe" full. So get an 8oz can or bigger. Once you have some, you'll...

A little update... Originally none of my 12 leaf spring grease joints would take grease. All the fittings were fine (and those parts I listed above are the correct parts though), so it was the actual joint that was stuck shut. I'm guessing that at some point, decades ago, the truck stopped...

I don't think making the pass through is that difficult, it may just require a little creativity. I'm a mechanical design engineer, so thinking about stuff like this gets me excited. 1. Don't worry about the distance (2') between the cab and the box. All you have to do to solve that problem is...

My truck didn't shift too bad previously, when I broke the block and everything. It shifted hard, but just "standard LMTV hard", and mostly just that 2->3 or 3->2 big ratio jump. Now that I've switched engines it does seem to shift hard often, but I haven't figured that out yet. One suggestion...

That's an awesome way to see it go. When I was in, I had "FIDO" (F' it, drive on) in my helmet. My first truck had the plates "DRIVON". Maybe they will send you a couple action shots of it in the waters. I sent you a PM.

Is it a metric or imperial thread? 0.313" looks like it's an M8, since the threads typically run a couple thousandths under.

Thanks, I'll check them.

Mine aren't... they are steel. Maybe they were made or replaced at some point. Strangely, they are pretty much the only rusty part on my truck, and are totally rusted to the nuts. Since the only way to hold them still is the screwdriver slot, I twisted one of the slots out and then twisted...

Is there a process in the manuals for checking/setting the clocking? I know for a fact the driveshafts have been off, so this sounds like a great place to look. I didn't even know clocking them was a thing.

By noisy I was basically saying that this isn't like my modern daily commuting vehicle, which is quiet enough to hear every little mechanical change. These trucks are so loud you almost have to wear hearing protection, you have people here on SS installing sound insulation in and under the cab...

I can have them made, I just need precision dimensions of one. I would like to have replacements on hand so that I can cut the old ones off, replace the broken seats, and then reinstall the posts with new bolts, all in one day. I'm a mechanical engineer, so I can create prints for a machine...

It broke all that stuff while keeping it in the 50-55MPH range, below totally floored, though it does happen when driving at higher constant speeds (for <20 miles). And no, it's not noticeable in the cab, at least through all the noise and vibration the truck generally generates.

Yeah, I'm almost certain. He started another post asking about the cab to box pass through tunnel. In his picture there, you can see the paint job I was talking about.

What's it leaking out of? A crack? A seal?

Does anyone have accurate dimensions / CAD of the troop seat bolts that hold the upright posts in place (#7 in the picture)? Alternatively, does anyone have one that is functional enough to come apart, that I could borrow/buy, to blueprint and have some made? My bolts need changing, but are...

The devices in those spots in my truck read "Dill Blox - Diode Module - 100690". If it helps figuring out what they are, a "diode" is an electrical device that passes electricity in only one direction, like a check valve in a hose. http://www.dillblox.com/diode.htm

I'm not sure if you're being sarcastic, so I'll give a straight answer. It does none of those things. It connects to another device with a physical wire.

I haven't seen any, though I'm confident it could be done. This topic comes up periodically, and most people seem to post saying that they think it would be too complicated to be worth doing. I think a really nice one could be designed and built, including a disconnect mechanism for when...

Yes, I read the link before I posted. I don't interpret that line to mean that. To me, that literally means both during field operations in use, and transportation, as in shipping it around. Anyway, I've never seen one in a truck, just in fighting emplacements. I've used both the older...