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WTEC II/III Transmission and Throttle Position Sensor Calibration: WTEC II TEPSS requires calibration after replacement. Procedure found in TM 20-3, page 8-5 (p 637). Procedure for WTEC III is similar, and is in the manual on page 8-7 (p 639) immediately following the WTEC II procedure. The...

Thanks, I'll check for it. What's your thinking here? I have my foot off the gas to slow down, the TPS can't tell that, and so it downshifts early while it's still at too high a speed (and then the RPM jump up)? If it could tell it would know to wait longer?

No, no codes. And I followed the throttle adjustment procedure in TM, I'm not sure if that covers the throttle position sensor adjustment too. The procedure had me loosen the throttle until it contacted one stop, then floor the pedal and adjust it until it touched the other stop.

Before the engine swap, it seemed to shift at appropriate speeds. It would shift up into 7th gear by maybe 40-45MPH (in 7th while driving around town), then down at a lower speed that felt ok (maybe 35-40MPH?). I don't really know what it was doing, because it wasn't noteworthy. I just know that...

Because I don't have a tach, and the truck isn't working correctly. I swapped engines, and during the swap we broke the engine speed sensor. Now the truck shifts way harder, especially down, than it used to. So I'm actually trying to figure out what's wrong, and it seems like a good...

I was doing this by myself, so I had to start the engine to measure. I had installed it to 2 turns back from bottomed out in contact, as the TM said. I was reading 0.025VAC, with the engine running. I turned it in to about 5/8 turn backed out, and am now reading 0.260VAC with the engine...

I did some checking on mine today, and there is some weirdness. Both the temp switch in the coolant tube and the one in the side of the thermostat housing are essentially the same. They are: Coolant tube: TM-9A-230R/7 Thermostat Housing: TM-9A-230R-CANNON According to Nason's website (...

You're not going to get it in an 8' wide garage door. (Also, my 8' wide door is measured between the metal rails, and the actual door frame on the house is narrower. Yours may be different.) The lift hooks do not stick out extra.

The 20-3 TM says "NOTE: Discard fan clutch assembly PN 1090-08000-03 and replace with fan clutch assembly PN 1090-08000-01." I had the older -03 fan, and am replacing it with the newer -01 model. The TM also says "NOTE: Discard engine fan PN 4035-41393-74 and replace with engine fan PN...

Thanks guys, that should get me heading in the right direction. I'll order a couple from McMaster with the next batch of hardware I order from them, and contact ITT.

Does anyone know the name or make of the round electrical connectors used in the FMTV? There are a couple I would like to replace, as well as a few things I would like to make for it using them. I've heard the name "Douglas Electrical Connectors" thrown around but couldn't find anything related...

Yeah, they're going to rebuild mine and replace the u-joints for $475. That's why when I saw your post the same day I was like "****, might as well buy a new one instead."

From the engineering side, it varies a little, but generally if a fastener has threads engaged at least 1.5x the diameter (e.g. 1/2" diameter bolt is engaged >3/4" of threads), the fastener shaft will fail before the threads. Typically, we design to have at least 2 full threads protruding from...

That would probably be pushing beyond the limits of an LMTV (single rear axle), and maybe just inbounds for an MTV (6x6) if you remove the bed. Top speed is around 50-55MPH.

I called them (twice to make sure), and they had no idea what I was talking about. They said the best they could do was $1000 for a new one, or they had a truck they could pull a working one off of for less. A very strange conversation.

Haha, that's great.

What are the panels on the inside of your doors made of? I saw some on eBay that were made of aluminum. Mine are made of some kind of fiberboard / hardboard. I am thinking about trying to get some aluminum panels.

I swapped engines in June, it's a lot of work. It took us like 5 full days (sun up to sun down, on the longest days of the year), plus 5-6 more days of 4:30-9PM. We hadn't done it before, but I have changed engines in things before. It was also tough to find a rental engine crane that could...

I figured, but thought I would ask just in case the rims couldn't function without the bead locks, for example, or some other factor with the rim that would make it obvious.

This is all great info. That brings up a side question I've had: Do all LMTVs have bead lockers and/or run flats inside? Is there a way to know without taking them apart?