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It sure would be nice to be able to convert our 134 hp LDT's to put out 250 hp at least, and be more reliable at the same time... Someone should start offering the "MF-Performer-Base-Kit": reground cam (& lifters?); correct rod bolts; stronger head studs; main bearings. G.

If you have TM 9-2330-202-14&P.... Go to Section E-5: Codes: 258 = M116A2; CT1 = M116A3; Then go to Fig 8 Brake assembly, see items #1 to #18: all those are usable on codes (UOC) CT1,SPR,TC1,258,263. Same codes on items #1 to #5, Fig 9, Wheel cylinder. G.

Maybe contact Tom (m-35tom). I know he has those. G.

Yes.

Fully agree! (oh, and don't forget: off-road use, only!) :) BTW, who could tell this one was welded... ? G.

Attached a few pics... (and fixed title). G.

There are two different valves in use. Left in the picture is for the 12-bolt wheels; right is for all 24-bolt wheels. The first one, I wouldn't call "standard", at all..!? (Still wondering how they ever came up with that creation...) "Gaskets" for both styles are more like O-rings. When I had...

Post #6 wasn't about the bracket bolts (which we know, are all metric)... We are talking about the CUCV's PS-pump shaft #7837321 (NSN 3040-01-160-1535) and the size of its threaded hole. I say again that a 3/8"-16 bolt will fit right; a M10x1.5 bolt will not. G.

3/8"-16 is correct, for ALL of them. Yes. And clean that threaded hole with a tap before you force a new bolt in there. G.

WRONG! Better leave it as it was...! See TM 9-2320-209-20-3-1; Chapter 9, P. 45 (also other TM's) Although this is for a Deuce, the principle of operation is the same for all sprag-equipped T-Cases. G.

So you do realize that during normal operation a good portion of the weight of the M1000 trailer + its payload is constantly and proportionally distributed (via hydraulics) between its three front rows of axles AND the goose-neck pressing down on the 5th wheel ??? ... which ensures enough weight...

It is exactly 2x 3/8" = 3/4". Just updated the drawing with that missing dimension. Thanks for pointing it out. G.

Do a search online for "Trailer 12"x2" hub drum kit electric brakes 5200 # axle 6 on 5.5" I would try to keep the original trailer axle, mainly because of its extra-width: 74" between wheel mounting surfaces! It should not be too difficult to adapt such a kit, using the correct bearings/seals...

On that first tire I would exclude the decade 90-99 because at that time it was already mandatory for all tire manufacturers globally, to use the 3 digits, plus the triangle to differentiate the 90's from the 80's. Manufacturing date code then would have been (487<) As for being safe... well...

Look what is placed in the oval, only! After 2K it's 4 digits: first two = week; second two = year. Or post a pic of what you see and we may be able to help. G.

How much end play? Nada, zero! And no preload either. G.

Start by re-adjusting (make a tad shorter) the MC push-rod. G.

Yes, they are (almost) identical and interchangeable. G.

Not the ones I found in many -A1's down here. They are all the same diameter as the LD/ LDTs. G.

1) See if there is a 1/4" plug to the lower rear of the engine block, so that the dipstick location could be reversed. 2) See if the block has any bosses/ threaded bolt holes for the front engine supports. (pic) If YES in both cases, then it is NOT a LDS-427 If you have the HD90101A head then...